A Tea Addict's Journal

Dear Davelcorp,

Thank you, very belatedly, for sending me this sample. It’s been more than a year since its arrival, and only till now have I found time to drink it. I’m sorry it took so long, but I’m sure, as you know, I went to Asia shortly after your tea arrived, and in the rush to pack things up, move, and… move again, I haven’t found time to drink the tea. I suppose since it’s puerh, it doesn’t matter so much how it was stored. In fact, your smell-neutral paper bag probably worked pretty well since it allowed some air exchange for the bits of tea in there.

So I finally opened the well-labeled packet today, complete with your name in the bottom

These are not all — there’s a bit more tea in there, loose leaves, mostly, but the small bits make picture taking easier. Here’s a closeup

Mengku Rongsi factory is one that I’m somewhat more familiar with, having visited their factory store in Maliandao multiple times, and having tried quite a few of their products, young and old. Their young teas I found to be somewhat floral, at times quite bitter, but always possessing some strength and complexity. The older teas are a bit more of a mixed bag — some turn out a little like a dianhong, but retains a chocolate/nutty flavour that can be quite interesting, even only after 4-5 years of aging. I myself bought some of their teas, and have hopes that they will, at least, turn into something interesting.

These mini-bings I did see in Maliandao, but I’ve never tried nor bought any of them. I’ve found that many of their products, despite their different names, often taste quite similar. No doubt this is partly due to their use of maocha from generally the same area.

This tea therefore didn’t surprise me with the way it tasted. There’s something vegetal and slightly floral, without an initial bitterness, but it shows through after it’s been in your mouth for a little bit. After swallowing, at least for the first few infusions, there’s a throatiness that lingers, which is nice. The flavours are almost sort of subdued — it’s light in a way, but heavy in another. Perhaps elusive is a good term. It’s not bad that way — just the way it behaves. The bitterness doesn’t last very long, which is good. The tea, however, stays quite potent through many infusions. I liked that about this tea, and I find it to be generally true of their productions. For the price, at least at the time (it seems it’s gotten pricier) it was probably a very good buy. I’m not sure if it’s as good a purchase now, but it might be interesting to see how these age compared to a big bing.

The colour of the tea is a little dark, but not too unlike the young puerhs I’ve been having the past few days

The wet leaves are quite thick, compared to what I’ve been drinking. They’re also mostly whole buds or small leaves. Some are broken, others whole. Some stems too, but not a whole lot.

On Chinese forums such as Sanzui (which has strangely been hard to get to these days) some have pondered whether the new products from Mengku Rongsi has been processed at too high a temperature. It doesn’t seem this tea has that problem, given that it’s been about two years since its production. I can’t say for certain, but I’ve had much nastier teas that are two years old.

I very much enjoyed this tasting, and I look forward to trying this again perhaps a few years down the road with a sample exchange with you for something else.

Yours,

MarshalN

Continuing the parade of 2006 Tasteoff leftovers

This is one of the older teas that was passed around for tasting, and judging from everybody’s comments, including mine, it was not too well received.

I must say I have to revise my statements a bit. I think it has to do with the amount of leaves I used.

I used up the rest of the sample, which must be around 7g of leaves. I brewed… and what I tasted was something that could credibly be a Yiwu. It’s a bit cloudy, it’s a little mellow, but I don’t think it was mellow in a bad way. There’s bitterness in there, if you brew it longer. There’s also some nice floral notes, much sweetness, although not much of the minty flavours I found first time around. I think there’s even some throatiness, although not too much. This is not a great Yiwu, but it probably is one. I must say I liked it, not a lot, but I liked it enough. There might be some less-than-perfectly processed tea in there, as there’s a bit of sourness and a bit of an unsettling taste… but it’s not fatal.

While I wouldn’t say this is a great tea, I don’t think it’s a bad tea. Whether I would buy it or not depends entirely on the price, but it’s not something I’d categorically rule out. I don’t think it’s that bad, and I think it’s turning a corner in its aging process.

The tea does brew a bit cloudy… might be a storage issue, or something.

The leaves are a mixed bag… some large, some small. On the whole it’s a bit on the thin side, and a little limp. Not the greatest leaves, I don’t think, and claims of old trees is a little doubtful — perhaps summer picked?

Whatever it is… it’s at least more enjoyable, I think, than the teas I tried the last two days.

Another dug up sample from the 2006 Tasteoff… this one thanks to BBB.

I brewed it again in my new pot. I am having some adjustment issues with the pot — namely I am putting in far too much leaves. I haven’t been able to gauge how much leaves I am actually putting into the pot versus the volume, and both yesterday and today I think I have basically overstuffed the pot, making it very strong and slightly difficult to swallow at times.

The dry leaves didn’t smell like much of anything, having resided in the plastic bag for the whole year last year. The piece I got was pretty compact, and obviously made of small buds, as the name “First Grade” bing suggest. In Chinese the cake is actually called “Jia Ji”, or better translated as “A grade”. I think it is safe to say that the leaves are not indeed all first grade leaves, but instead a mixture of high grade (i.e. small) leaves.

It brews an orange infusion. No doubt, the high leaves to water ratio has something to do with the saturation….

It was bitter. Quite bitter, but not so bitter as to be entirely unenjoyable. It’s not bitter in the way a green tea puerh is bitter. There is a huigan, albeit a slow one. In fact, this tea tastes rather similar to the tea I had yesterday. The tea I had yesterday was a little mellower, whereas this one’s a little more punchy. Taking into account the age difference and the slightly higher amount of leaves I put in today (as I discovered halfway into the brewing) I think it explains pretty well what’s going on. It does hold up better than the tea yesterday, but that might also have to do with the higher amount of leaves present. It’s not a great tea, I think, but it’s a regular puerh made by Menghai. Retail for this on Taobao is 230 RMB, which translates into something like 30 USD. BBB said he got it for 18.50, but probably won’t buy it again at that price. At $30… it’s not worth it at all.

The leaves, as you can see below, are very small, and quite chopped up

They are mostly small, under 3cm in length. There’s some variety in how they look like when unfolded… but nothing too exciting either way

A factory tea through and through. I think what factory teas do well is consistency… at least before the whole craze really got to them. With enough blending, you can come to expect a certain type of taste from a certain factory. Small producers don’t have that consistency, but that’s part of the fun in trying the differences and to see how different people make them differently. It’s also more of an exploration… whereas I’ve had many Menghai cakes that are very roughly similar (especially the newer productions) with differences that are usually relatively minor. There are exceptions, of course, but by and large, that’s been my experience.

Again going back to the old stash I have here, I dug up a cake of the Fengqing mini cakes that I own. Last time I tried this was before the 2006 Tasteoff, at which point I sent samples of this tea out to various people. It’s time to try it again, a year later, to see if I can find anything I missed. I probably would, because at that point I haven’t tried all the young puerhs that I’ve recently tried in Beijing…

Small cakes always look rather cute.

The liquor seems to be darker than I remember

But then, I added quite a bit of tea today. The taste is mellow, but with a bitter edge. The bitterness dies a bit, but it never quite goes away entirely. There’s a strong initial rush of flavours in the first few infusions, but it drops off a bit after about 5 infusions and then seems to skate on a lower plane of flavours — more subdued, less bitter, colour obviously weaker, but despite its light colour, taste is there. Clearly this is plantation tea, but not horrible, I think. At least I don’t think it’s been weirdly processed. There’s just a hint of age in there, but it’s still pretty raw. It’s got some time to go yet… I think I’ll let it sit some more before trying it again.

Worth mentioning though is also the christening of a new teapot — my friend L gave it to me as a parting gift of sorts. This is a prototype that was made for him to inspect before they make a larger production of the pots, and through him I’m ordering some pots for myself as well as some members of the LA group. He had a few of the prototypes sitting around, so he gave me once since it was going to be the last time I see him for a long time.

Unfortunately, I chipped the pot a little yesterday when I boiled it in water to clean it. I think initially the boiling was a little too vigorous and it bumped the pot I was boiling it in….

Sigh… luckily, it doesn’t really affect the pouring at all. The stream is still rather clean and crisp, and so for that, I’m thankful. It did do something that I haven’t really done before with my own pots though

When I poured I noticed the lid wasn’t really coming off. I suppose that’s a good thing, despite the rather short “legs” the lid has. I do wonder if the tea tasted different given my use of a pot. It probably did — pots seem to soften the teas that are brewed in them. Chances are the tea today would’ve been more stimulating if I brewed it in a gaiwan.

The wet leaves are mostly broken

And tiny

A pretty mediocre tea all around. At least it was cheap. I don’t think I’d buy this again, but it might be ok 20 years down the road…

As I was digging up samples of old things to try, I found the stash of unopened 2006 Tasteoff samples that I have yet to try. I remember I didn’t get around to trying them all because of moving, etc, and now, perhaps, is a good time to go through the rest.

The first one that I plucked out of the samples is the 2005 Nanzhao cake, made by Xiaguan factory. From what I know this is supposed to be better than their regular stuff, such as the usual tuos.

The piece I got was very compressed, as is customary of Xiaguan stuff, plus bits and pieces.

The tea brews a bright orange.

The first two or three infusions were rather bland…. not very interesting, and generally felt a little weak, in fact. Then, the tea became stronger, but also more bitter. Part of this might be because of the tight compression, but I think at least some of it is because Xiaguan teas are mostly baked dry at higher temperatures, and thus behave a little more like a green tea. There’s some huigan to the tea, but not very obvious, and neither is the aroma very pleasing. I’ve tried stuff like this in China, and I didn’t like them. I don’t like the increased bitterness over time in the infusions, nor the way the tea felt weak (but strangely uncomfortable as I drank it — as if my body doesn’t like it).

The wet leaves are very chopped up

Typical, again, of Xiaguan stuff in general. This is definitely a tea that is diffcult to enjoy now. I’m not sure if it’s going to be good in the future… but it somehow lacks that energy and strength that I like, and really doesn’t sit very well with me for some reason. Perhaps this will be great in twenty years, but I think even then, it might require a more humid climate to age in order to show something good. Storing them dry might just not change it enough for long term consumption.

I was digging up old samples today to drink, and found this

The last time I tried this tea was before I went to China, so at least a year ago. It’s been a while. Why not?

The tea is very tightly compressed. I decided to use up the remaining sample I have. I could try to split it into two sessions, but I decided not to.

The last time I tried it I didn’t say much about it. I don’t think I had enough experience with younger puerh at the time to know what I was talking about. Now I think I’m slightly better equipped to deal with this tea.

The short version is — I’m not sure if this is Yiwu, if this is 99, if this is a wild tea, or if this is a Menghai. I don’t think this is a Yiwu because it is too bitter for what it is. It also doesn’t taste very much like a Yiwu that’s aged a few years. In fact, it reminds me most of my 2002 Mengku cakes. The taste profile are very very similar — some bitterness, some astringency, chocolate like flavours, etc. I don’t think this is necessarily 99 because of some of the same reasons, but also because I don’t think I’ve encountered another 1999 Yiwu from Menghai other than Green Big Tree. I can very well be wrong on this. I don’t think this is a wild tea because the tea lacks any sort of throatiness — the flavour stays entirely on the tongue and nowhere else. Huigan is basically nonexistent, especially given the relatively high amount of leaves I’m using. As for Menghai… something about the wrapper (or the little picture of the wrapper) makes me wonder. The very large Menghai words in the bottom looks different than the versions I’ve seen, which have a small font. I’m not saying this is fake, it might not be, but it does look a little funny.

Either way, I don’t think this is a Yiwu, never mind the special reserve designation. Even if it were Yiwu, I don’t think it is a particularly good one. I’ve had better. It lacks the high perfumy notes I’ve encountered in aged-a-bit Yiwus. Instead, it tastes heavy like Mengku tea, which are way cheaper.

Not that this thing is on sale anymore, so it doesn’t really matter anyway. It’s good to know though that I didn’t miss out on a treasure.

Some pictures of the tea and the wet leaves….

The wet leaves are turning brown, but still mostly greenish tinted (not too obvious in this picture). The leaves are very heavily compressed and also quite chopped up.