A Tea Addict's Journal

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Telling tetsubins apart

May 18, 2008 · 18 Comments

Tetsubins come in all shapes and sizes. Here are three that I own, as well as the smaller, flatter hobnail one that I had trouble with trying to de-smell. Since switching to it, I’ve found it does help with the tea I brew — it’s gained a bit of a deeper flavour, and is probably especially suited to the types of tea I normally drink, which is mainly aged teas these days. It also gives Wuyi teas a nice aftertaste that is more pronounced than with my Braun kettle.

As you can see… they’re not the same at all.

I think when picking out a tetsubin, there are a few things to keep in mind, aside from the obvious question of cost. First — is it a used item or is it new? New ones tend to have enamel lining inside, which neutralizes any effect it might have on your water. The enamel will break off eventually, especially if you heat the pot on the stove directly. If it’s used — how much rust is there in the pot? Does it leak? When I bought my leftmost pot, that was the problem — there was a hole in it and it leaks. Then, I got the rightmost one, which was a newer make, and lightly used. A bit of rust (I’ve since added to it a little — iron will rust no matter what you do), but nothing problematic and makes nice water. Then, very recently, I acquired the middle one for a very low price (around $50). It’s a heavily used item, also not very well kept, thus the outer surface is rusty. You can see it clearly here

Not the prettiest, but I liked the shape of the thing. I also liked the minor details

Generally speaking, after having looked through many, many of these online, I’ve noted that the cheaper ones are the ones with the solid iron lids — lids that are made of the same cast iron as the kettle itself. Better ones will invariably have other kinds of lids, made of some sort of copper alloy usually, but very rarely also of silver (which sends the price of the tetsubin skyrocketing). Under the lid is sometimes written the name of the maker

In this case Ryubundo, a famous and also very prolific tetsubin maker that, I believe, got started in the Meiji period. They’re still making tetsubins today, I think, and although well known and famous, Ryubundo tetsubins are actually quite common — you can easily find one from Japan if you look. However, I’ve seen places that sell just lids for tetsubins by the dozen — of various kinds, usually, I’d imagine, from old rusted and broken tetsubins. The lids, however, are worth money, and a non-famous maker tetsubin can be made into something else with the addition of a nice (and hopefully fitting) lid.

I think my right hand one, i.e. the most often used one, is of the usual simple design — a plain pattern with some sort of uniform surface. These are quite common, and generally cheaper, especially if there’s no maker’s name, but even if there are they don’t exceed maybe $200 or so in price. The ones that are wholly iron are even cheaper.

Then, however, you get into more expensive territory when they start having designs on them. The left hand one is of a simpler form — some sort of relief pattern of whatever it is — ranging from animals to leaves to geometric patterns to flowers to VERY elaborate relief patterns of houses, rocks, etc. Some are tasteful, others are gaudy. Some also have old kamon, or family crests, of important families. Those can be quite nice and rustic, but those also tend to be expensive. Of course, these things depend on individual taste.

It’s worth keeping an eye out for the way the handle is made too — sometimes the handles are also elaborately designed, whether with some inlaid patterns, as my middle one does (though much faded), or in some cases, with detailed sculpted patterns and figures. Both the patterns on the handles and on the body itself can be highly decorative and sometimes made of other precious metals, usually silver, sometimes gold. Those, again, will drive the price of the items up into the stratosphere.

I sometimes see these tetsubins having a very shiny black surface with zero rust, which I find incredible because if you use it, it’s going to rust, in and out (slight rusting on the outside is hard to avoid when it deals with water all the time). So my guess is, they somehow rub it off or polish it with something, although I don’t know what. If anybody does know, please let me know 🙂

Find ones with original boxes — and make sure (if you can read Japanese — or ask friends who do) they’re the original, not some substitute. Of course, that’s not always possible, and if you just want function, ones without the original wood box work just as well, but the wood box cost money, and the value of your item is substantially lower to collectors if there’s no box that comes with it. My “new” one comes with a very nice weathered box. I don’t think it’s the original, but I wasn’t about to complain for the price I paid, flawed though the piece may be. The box, if nothing else, gives the item an extra air of history to it. I’m a sucker for those things.

Tetsubins are by no means rare, since the Japanese seemed to have produced them in prodigious quantities. A search on Trocadero will yield a number of fine ones, some of which I personally think are fairly reasonably priced (for the quality, anyway). One downside to these things — they’re heavy, so I think I’ll be capping my purchase of these things for now until I don’t have to move again any time soon, because otherwise, it’ll be hell to move.

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Drinking matcha

May 17, 2008 · 4 Comments

Last time I had matcha, it was in Uji about five years ago. There’s a tea culture center in Uji, behind the magnificent Byodo-in. There, you can have the cheapest proper tea ceremony done for you in Japan — I think it was 500 yen per person. The tea room is a bit on the big side, as I’m sure they have to accomodate a large number of people sometimes, tour groups and all. I don’t remember much of the tea — it wasn’t something to really write home about. I just remember my legs almost giving out by trying to sit properly with my knees in front of me. I think I lasted 15 minutes before giving up.

So here I am, trying to make this drink again. I’ve trying playing with matcha before, but only briefly.

Chawan, chasen, chashaku… and you’re in business. Pretty simple, really.

The matcha I used is some stuff I got with the chasen and the chashaku.

Made by a store that is, supposedly, continuously in existence for 450 years in Uji. I believe them. Walking down the street from the train station to Byodo-in really makes you feel like you’re back in an Edo period town. The stores are all obviously old and, thankfully, escaped damage from the war.

I tried

Interesting, because in the mouth, the tea isn’t particularly strong. I made it lightly, in case I did something horribly wrong. I used hottish water — water that was boiled and then let cooled for a bit. I don’t know how hot, or how much exactly, I used. I just eyeballed it as best I can. After drinking it though, I can feel a nice, sweet aftertaste. It also gave me a feeling that is akin to cha qi. A little later, I can feel a jolt, probably from the caffeine.

Interesting. When cooled, it can be a nice summery drink. I don’t see myself drinking this stuff too often — I went to an aged baozhong right after. However, I do feel a sort of obligation, at the very least, to be experimenting a little more in this area.

Now I sound like a drug addict….

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New toys

May 16, 2008 · 4 Comments

A big package arrived today, with my new toys. Too lazy to take pictures at this point, but you’ll see them tomorrow.

Now….

Anybody has any suggestion on ways to make matcha? I’ve tried it before, but am by no means skilled. Usucha seems more appropriate at this point, since I know making koicha can be tricky.

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Aged shuixian

May 15, 2008 · 2 Comments

I had some aged shuixian today. The first thing that came to mind when I tried it is…. seems like the tea has improved.

I’m using the same pot as before, so I am guessing the water/kettle has something to do with it (lighting conditions was awful today for pictures). There’s a more spicy taste to the shuixian than I previously remembered — something that, given more intensity, will start approaching the taste of the mystery aged oolong I have.

So maybe, after all, Tiffany is right, and that tea is an aged shuixian of some sort, aged somewhat carelessly. This tea is only about 5-10 years old, according to the person who sold it to me. I sometimes wonder if I can find old teas stored away somewhere in Wuyishan…. we can always dream, I suppose 🙂

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How much tea to use?

May 14, 2008 · 2 Comments

One of the most basic things you learn when you first try to brew tea is … one spoonful for the pot, and then one for every person.

Somehow, the size of the vessel doesn’t matter for that one.

Over time, I’ve noticed that one of the most consistent question that comes up for brewing tea — any kind of tea, but especially gongfu Chinese tea, is “how much tea did you use?”

Which of course should also go with “how big is your pot/gaiwan?” if you’re making it gongfu style.

As my longtime readers would know, I eschew a scale. I judge how much tea I’m using only relative to the pot size and the kind of tea. Pot size it’s easy — whether it’s 2/3, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5…. so on. But when do I use 2/3, 1/3, etc?

That’s when the tea part comes in… the amount changes depending on the tea. It also depends on individual teas, but in general, it depends on the style. So, for example, Wuyi teas generally get the most, as well as some high roasted oolongs, especially if I’m trying to make them Chaozhou style. Then you have stuff like aged puerh and aged oolong, young puerh, light oolongs…. roughly in that order (from high to low).

Within each genre, of course, there are also variations. Some Wuyi need more leaves than others. Some need less. In most cases, however, those general principles hold — at least for me.

One thing I’ve found repeated over many times by various people is that somehow, a tea that requires more leaves to be good is necessarily not as high quality as one that requires less leaves. Even assuming that there’s a universal “good”, I am not sure why this should be true. Would anybody dispute that a Red Label, aged 50+ years now, is no good? Yet, when Cloud described drinking it with his friend, they used a whooping 14.1 grams of tea for one pot. Does that make it worse than some other aged puerh that require only 10g?

Therein lies the problem, I think, for there are other variables involved that do not factor into the equation of weight/volume. For example, a certain tea might be particularly interesting because of, say, a unique fragrance it gives off when you brew it right. However, brewing it right might involve using more leaves than usual. You can brew that tea using normal parameters for a particular genre, and not get anything interesting from that tea. It is possible to simply discard it and decide it’s not worth the trouble. Or, one can try again, varying the parameters a little, and see what happens… and sometimes good things happen, sometimes it’s more than merely good — results can be amazing, revealing a totally different tea that was previously undiscovered. All it takes is more (or less) leaves.

Therefore, in some ways, I think any and all tasting of limited sized samples are, in and of themselves, rather meaningless. They’re sort of like a random walk — you can get all kinds of result from that one sitting. As each drinker develop more expeirence with teas in general and perhaps a certain genre in particular, it is possible to take less time in figuring out what an optimal brewing parameter is for a particular tea. The aggregate of tastings, preferably by one person, but sometimes by many (as in the case of the blogosphere), can be meaningful. I know I sometimes dismiss a tea as “bad”. That’s just bad for me for that particular sitting – sometimes. Sometimes it’s because I’ve had things like it before, and they simply don’t do it. Sometimes it’s because I have no clue what I’m doing and screwing everything up. So, take this post as a long caveat — and also as an apology for the rather difficult medium of the internet as the only way for us to have our tea meetings.

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Unwanted teas

May 12, 2008 · 9 Comments

What do you do with teas that you no longer want, but is a waste to throw away?

I was going through my tea closet, and found this one sealed and unopened canister of longjing. It was a pretty good grade longjing that was given to me, but since I almost never drink green tea, I never opened it. It’s been almost two years now, I think. I’m sure it’s still good, because recently I opened some other can that is basically a two or three year old green tea. Still tastes rather ok.

It’s a waste to throw away the tea. If I open the can, then I know it’ll be spoiled sooner or later because I just won’t drink it fast enough. If I don’t open it, it will languish….

Iced tea, I suppose, is one way to dispose of the tea, but I can only drink so much iced tea….

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I can’t drink gaoshan oolongs

May 12, 2008 · 2 Comments

One of the biggest changes in the 2+ years I’ve been blogging is that I no longer drink any Taiwanese gaoshan oolong.

Of course, with any statement like this, I am bound to break it — like today — but generally speaking, whereas I used to drink a fair amount of this stuff on a regular basis, I think today is the first time I actively made it myself since returning from Taiwan.

Mostly this can be chalked up to a phisiological change — I find myself much less able to handle this stuff than I used to. If it is dongding, with a suitable level of firing, I can still drink it, but if it’s say, Lishan oolong (which today’s tea is) then chances are I’ll feel pretty unwell afterwards. I either feel tired, or dizzy, or have a stomach ache… or all of the above. I was going through my tea stash today, and wanted to compare my tea with the two we had yesterday. Mine’s a little less harsh, but that could be because I didn’t stuff my pot, and it’s slightly higher roasted than the ones we had yesterday. Yet, after a few infusions, I could feel myself not really liking it, physically. The main attraction of gaoshan oolong, which is its aroma, is not something I find particularly alluring these days. Instead, I feel it’s mostly just something in the mouth that doesn’t last. If I want aroma, I can drink jasmine. If you want depth, qi, body, etc…. gaoshan oolong, in its easily obtainable form, usually doesn’t cut it. Not to mention that much of that stuff could be Vietnamese fakes.

Remind me not to drink these things again….

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Tea meeting

May 10, 2008 · 4 Comments

I had tea today with the owner of the blog Mount Awakening Aroma in Columbus, OH, a rather unlikely location for a meeting of two Chinese men drinking some tea.

The two Chinese men were not alone, as there were others who joined in the drinking. We went outdoors, to a park nearby, and sat down and had tea in a picnic area, complete with a shade and a usable (but unused today) barbeque.

Making tea for a lot of people pose unique challenges. There were a total of 13 people at the meeting today. I thought we were getting maybe 5, so I brought with me my black pot, which would work well with 5-6 people using small cups. 13 people, however, completely changed that.

The Hermit of Mount Awakening, however, was better prepared, and brought along one of those 300 ml pots that are well suited for such large gatherings. We first had a Taiwanese gaoshan oolong, from Nantou. Those teas work well in these circumstances, pleasing all at the table and being rather easy to appreciate. The pot performed admirably, although the table was so long as to require passing of the fairness cup from one to another, because it was impossible to pour otherwise (these are basically park benches, you see…)

I tried to make tea using my black pot, with the biyuzhu that I brought along. It worked out better than I imagined, since the tea rebrews very well, so I was able to get three combo steeps of three infusions (i.e. pour infusions 1, 2, 3 into fairness cup, distribute, repeat). Then we had to move on to something else, and I was using my pot more for my personal drinking and for my neighbours while we had a lull in the tea making – mostly between water boiling for use.

Two more teas were made — a rather nice competition tea from Dongding, fired appropriately and thus removed of any trace of grassy notes, and then another Taiwanese gaoshan oolong, not fired as much and thus, in contrast, has much grassy character. There’s a reason, I think, why oolongs used to be much higher fired than they are generally today. I think I like it the way it was.

It’s always nice drinking tea out. I should learn how to better make tea for a larger crowd. I think being mostly a solitary drinker recently has really made me less adept at doing it for many people — it was ok when I was getting lots of practice at Maliandao, but not so much now. Sigh, even these things can get rusty.

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Thanks

May 10, 2008 · 8 Comments

According to sitemeter, this blog has gotten its 70,000 visitor sometime yesterday. Those of you who use RSS, you don’t count 🙂

I guess that’s a large number, since when I first started it was really merely a way for me to keep track of my tea drinking, not expecting more than maybe the average 7 daily readers for your average blog. Over time, it grew into something else. I’ve gotten to know people who I otherwise would never have met. I have also learned more about myself, and my tea drinking.

So, a thank you to all of you who read this daily ramble, and to all those of you whose comments and correspondences make all this more enjoyable.

Categories: Misc · Old Xanga posts
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Drinking cold tea

May 9, 2008 · 1 Comment

It’s funny sometimes when you drink a cup of half cold tea, and notice something that’s entirely different from the cup of hot tea you had a few minutes ago. Sure, one infusion apart, but I think in such cases, much can be chalked up to the temperature of the tea (and what that means for your tongue) rather than the actual tea changing.

I was drinking my biyuzhu today, and one cup, when drunk almost cold, tasted somewhere between a hongcha and an odd green tea. It’s a strange combination of tastes, and certainly not something that I would find if I had drank that cup hot.

I know people who, when drinking old puerh, will drink half a cup hot, and then let the other half cool down a bit and drink that. YP, among others, does that sometimes. It enhances certain aspect of the tea and can actually make you more aware of the aromatics of a certain tea. When it’s too hot, many such things go unnoticed. It’s the same thing as when one drinks a cup of iced tea (no dilution — only fridge treatment) versus a cup of the hot thing at the same strength, only this way it’s a little more subtle.

Yes, throw in yet one more variable to the never ending series of things you have to look out for when you brew tea.

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