A Tea Addict's Journal

That inexplicable taste

February 12, 2008 · 1 Comment

I am drinking my familiar aged tieguanyin from my candy store again, something that I’ve fallen back to consistently over the past few weeks. I think quite a few times, I’ve mentioned how this tea has a bit of a “sharp” taste that I couldn’t quite describe. Today, it occurred to me what it tastes like.

Korean Kimchi…

Yes, that slightly stinky fermented cabbage. No, without the spice. Imagine if you washed some kimchi in water, so that the pepper is gone. What’s left is a cabbage that’s a little sharp. Today, drinking the 15th or whatever infusion it was of this tea, I tasted that sharpness. Of course, it’s not the same. There’s a certain fruity sweetness accompanying this tea that makes it pleasant. But somehow, the basic character of the sharp taste is similar to that I feel when I eat kimchi.

It sort of makes sense. Kimchi is fermented cabbage. This tea has gone through a little bit of wet storage, of sorts — there’s that moldy character that you don’t get in purely dry stored oolongs. Strange to talk about these things with oolongs, but I am now quite convinced that such things do happen. They don’t turn bad. They’re just different.

Kimchi…

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Aged baozhong, espresso edition

February 12, 2008 · 8 Comments

Who said tea’s not as strong as coffee?

Today I made this

As is usually the case, I overdosed myself because this is the remainder of the bag — the awkward amount that is a little much for one pot, but not enough for two. I threw it all in. Water goes in one end, tea comes out the other…

The tea came out very thick and strong. It was punchy. This tea is usually quite delicate, with lots of good plummy notes. Today it bulldozed over me with a strong, strong note of roasted baozhong, even though when brewed normally, there isn’t any roasted notes left. It didn’t help, of course, that bottom of the bag means lots of fannings that have been sinking to the bottom since I first got this tea. I was getting a headache drinking this thing.

The best infusion was probably the 10th, or was it the 12th? Nice plum notes, still quite strong. Whoever says coffee is stronger should try making teas like this. I remember once I was treated to the “VIP method” by Rosa of Best Tea House. “VIP method” means using a small Yixing pot, fill it up with Chaozhou gongfu heavily roasted oolong (when I say fill it up I mean fill it up…) and then brewing it with one drinking cup worth of water. The liquor that comes out is almost sticky. The tea is strong, and it knocks you right out. Quite a ride.

I could probably drink this again tomorrow, but I think I should go easy on myself with something simple and easy going. This was a little much…

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

Buying teapots online

February 11, 2008 · 8 Comments

Since most of my readers are not located in places where there are shops that sell anything other than the worst of the worst yixing teapots out there, online is pretty much the only place where one can buy such things.

So online is pretty much the only option. The other is to find friends who’ll do it for you, or fly yourself over to China/Taiwan and buy them yourself. Not very good options, especially since I think teapot is a very personal thing. What works for one person rarely works for another, and there are so many shapes and sizes out there that individual preferences are bound to differ. Buying teapots for other people, as I’ve learned, is a dangerous business.

That leaves online stores and auctions. What I witnessed tonight on Ebay was a frenzy of bidding for a series of yixing pots that some seller in Florida put up. It must’ve come from somebody’s collection of yixing pots. There were some that I am sure were Republican period pots, and I considered joining in the fray — until the fray got too hot for me really quickly. It ended up that a few of them went for something like $500 per pot. Others were maybe more in the $100-200 category. While some of these are genuinely old pots, none of them were in the fine yixing category. Rather, they were commercial stuff, made very roughly, and generally sold for commercial purposes rather than as objects of art or even personal pleasure. It was a utilitarian thing. An equivalent would be if some of these awful $10 Chinatown pots these days are going on auction 100 years from now… not exactly stuff you really want for making tea in.

What I did learn though is that there is a substantial amount of interest out there for yixing ware. One of the bidders on some of the pots have bought dozens of them from Ebay already. Most of them, in my opinion anyway, are far, far overpriced. Others seem to only dabble in pot buying, while interspersing their purchases with LV bags, clothes… and whatever else suits their fancy. Of course, everything is fair on Ebay. Unless the seller deliberately mis-states information regarding the item, which they tend not to do by using qualifiers such as “I think this is…” or “probably 19th century…” and that kind of thing, they are not liable.

Auctions in Asia are not necessarily any better. Those in Taiwan, for example, are numerous in listing, but most of them are rather sub-par in quality, obviously fake, or both. I’ve bought a few pots through that route. If it’s not too expensive, and the pot looks/feels ok, it actually is not a bad place to get a few decently made pots, as long as one spends a lot of time trolling the sites and sifting through the garbage. Then there are the highly priced, “antique” pots. Whether those are real or not is hard to say, and without having seen them in person, risking large sums ($500+) of money on one single teapot is almost crazy.

Aside from the sometimes rather trecherous path of auction, trecherous both because of the possibility of inauthentic goods, and also of the risk of being carried away by the passion of the moment (“I must have this pot!!!”), the other option is online stores…. which offer much more peaceful means of obtaining pots.

Yet those are not without risk either. Increasingly, I’ve noticed that the prices of these things are generally quite high… higher than what I remember, a few years ago. I am personally still apprehensive about spending much money on pots that I can’t see in person, but I speak as somebody who generally has access to other avenues. I suppose buying pots from an online vendor, the first thing you want to know is if they have a return policy. Pots don’t always work out in person. I’ve received one or two that looked not nearly as good as the pictures shown, or the clay texture feels funny once you actually get a hold of it. I am also weary of claims of old age. Taiwan probably has the highest concentration of fake antique pots in the world, mostly because of the big boom in the 80s that created huge demands and made faking pots really worthwhile. I’ve seen heated arguments in Taiwanese forums that are quite fraught with claims of authenticity or otherwise. Honestly, they all look pretty good, but supposedly, those who are really in the know can tell.

Sometimes though, I wonder if it’s not just for bragging rights — “I can tell better than you”, or “mine’s real, yours is not”. I used to view all this with amused cynicism, preferring to stay with the non famous maker, pedestrian pots that served the purpose of making tea. At the end of the day though, some pot, somewhere, will call out to you, and you too, will take the plunge…. that’s what I discovered the expensive way.

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

How times change

February 10, 2008 · Leave a Comment

(As I was about to post this blog post last night…. strong winds knocked out the power lines!)

I remember I used to like this tea quite a bit

This is the supposed 30 years old puerh from Best Tea House. I remember I liked it, thinking it both rather reasonable in price and decent in taste. Yet, today, when I tried it again after not having touch it in probably more than a year, it doesn’t seem so good anymore. It might be Vietnamese tea, first of all, with that signature taste. It’s a bit lacking in sweetness and depth. It doesn’t really go to your throat very much. Etc

Mind you, it’s not horrible. It’s still, I think, a pretty ok tea, but it doesn’t do it for me anymore. Maybe my tastes have changed, and hopefully not too much for the better (that’ll make buying tea harder and harder). I suppose increased experience means that you notice more and more things that you didn’t before. Drinking this today, I definitely felt how I have changed as a tea drinker. Maybe it’s a blessing, maybe it’s just a curse….

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

2005 Green City Peak Arbor Puerh

February 9, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Ok, so with my last shipment from puerhshop, I also got a sample of this puerh. It has this clunky name because the brand, “Qingcheng Feng” is literally “blue-green city/town peak”. Rest assured, Green City Peak is not a peak in Yunnan…. as far as I can tell anyway.

So they say this is the best Mengku cake they’ve gotten this year. I got a 5g sample, which is, truth be told, a little less than what I normally use for one session, but it’ll have to do. One cannot complain about free samples.

The leaves look normal. Actually, they are brighter coloured than the picture on the site suggests. At first I was a little nervous about this being one of those “wild wild” puerh out there which can be fairly disgusting, because of the dark coloured picture. Thankfully, that’s not the case. The tea brews normally.

The tea…. is interesting. It is bitter, but not really. It is strong… but not really. It is flavourful and active… but not really. The only thing I’m sure about is that it hits the throat and leaves a mark there. The reason I said “not really” three times is because it is one of those teas that seem strong, but yet the strength seems a little elusive. I definitely feel that there’s a sort of coating around the mouth when I drink it, but then, it is almost ethereal, sort of there, but then you question yourself as to whether it is really there or not.

Instinct tells me this is a good tea, but I need to try it again to be more sure — preferably with a little more leaves so I am not feeling like I have to juggle amounts of water in order to make the water/leaf ratio be closer to my “normal” amount. As is usually the case these days, whether it is worth its price or not is really up to the individual, although I can say that it impresses me more than some more expensive teas I’ve tasted recently.

The leaves are big

Which might indicate that some, at least, are not spring leaves, but summer, or whatever, pickings. There are, however, no wooden sticks in there or extremely long and old stems, which is good. The leaves are well done.

Interesting tea, at the very least.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

Happy year of the rat!

February 7, 2008 · 2 Comments

Happy Chinese New Year to all of you — and I hope the coming year will bring you many, many cups of great tea! 🙂

Categories: Misc · Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

Reading old texts II

February 7, 2008 · 15 Comments

I was flipping through the collection of old tea texts again, and something caught my eye. This is stuff that I saw a few times today with some Ming dynasty (1368-1644) texts. It has to do with water.

Remember those lessons you’ve learned, on or offline, that you should use water that is at “shrimp eye” or “crab eye” meaning that the water hasn’t reached a full rolling boil yet because once you do, the water is “old” and isn’t good for tea anymore?

Well, it seems like people who wrote about tea in the Ming dynasty didn’t agree. In fact, they say that the only water that should be used for tea is stuff that reached a full boil. You shouldn’t brew tea using water that is anything less than a full boil, they say, because in those cases the water would still retain a “water qi” that interferes with the tea. If you boil it out with a rolling boil, then the water becomes fully cooked, and is suitable for making tea.

So who’s right? After all, Lu Yu, of all people, said water should not reach a full boil!

Well, one of the authors explained that there’s a reason for this discrepency. It has to do with, you guessed it, the way tea was brewed. Whereas in the Tang and the Song, tea was ground down and powdered, etc, and sometimes with added incense or other things to enhance the flavour of the tea, water that has reached a full boil will mess with the powdered tea’s texture and taste. That’s why it’s no good. Whereas with the switch to full-leaf tea in the early Ming dynasty, the whole bit about water not reaching a full boil no longer applies. If you leave it underboiled, what you end up is a mixture of water and tea that isn’t quite harmonious. Full boil, with a fire that is “open” (in this case meaning a live fire with charcoal, not a bunch of flameless charcoal that is just very hot) is the way to go. Anything less is not good.

Interesting food for thought. It is important to keep in mind that most of these later tea texts are generally ignored by current day “tea masters” who tend to go back to the few famous ones, such as Lu Yu’s Tea Classic, the Daguan Chalun that I talked about last time, and a few others that tend to be more often quoted. However, the fact that there was this change in these rather short and relatively unknown treatises on tea means that there are other theories out there, and given that three or four different texts I read today all say the same thing about water needing a full boil means that this idea probably had wide currency among Ming tea drinkers — even if they were copying each other, the only reason they’ll commit it to paper is if they thought it was right.

Another thing to keep in mind — the teas they were drinking were green teas, maybe slightly roasted, but largely speaking, what we now call green teas. Full boil water anyway. Yup.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

How fast do you drink your tea?

February 5, 2008 · 4 Comments

I brewed up the tieguanyin that Toki sent me a while back again. It’s a nice tea, a bit roasty, but soft and mellow and not really bitter at all. These days, I’m using mostly my black teapot, but today I pulled out my old (and small) tieguanyin pot. It’s a smaller pot that really only pours out one cup, and it works fairly well for teas like this

It’s a joy to see pots season over time and gaining a sheen that it didn’t use to have.

But something came to mind today while I was making this tea — how fast do you drink your tea?

The reason I ask is because there’s always this constant concern with brewing parameters, specifically how long each infusion lasts. I think readers of my blog probably know that I generally don’t pay a lot of attention to exactly how long I use for each infusion, and instead I just brew as they come. Yet….. how long you take to drink your tea matters. Why? Because while you’re drinking your cup, the tea is still brewing, sort of. The leaves are wet, and they are stewing in that little bit of water that you have left in the pot/gaiwan. Today, for example, in between a few infusions I took a little longer because I was a little occupied with other things… and the infusions after those are inevitably a little sour with a little more tartness.

So what does this mean? If you’re really serious about keeping time, then you ought to keep time you spend drinking your cups (i.e. time between infusions) as well. Otherwise… my parameters of 5, 5, 5, 10, 10, 15 might work for me because I am only brewing one small cup and drinking them, but not for you because you take longer to drink your two cups… something like that.

Which is again why I think it’s better if you just experiment with various times and figure out what works for your style and what doesn’t

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Manzhuan laoshu 2004

February 5, 2008 · 3 Comments

I spent a year and half in China and Taiwan, and during that time, it seems like many online shops have opened that sell all sorts of tea, most of which were not even in existence when I left for Beijing. Being there, I obviously had no reason to buy anything from any of these shops. Now that I’m back, I thought I can give things a try.

The first one I decided to try my luck at is Puerh Shop, which, as I just noticed, has a sales going on right now (I wonder if I can get a retroactive discount?).

They shipped the tea very quickly, and within a few days it landed here, since they’re only one state over in Indiana… the tea I bought to try is a 2004 “Manzhuan Old Tree”. I bought the last one, so don’t bother looking for it 🙂 The reason I thought I should give that one a try is because I’ve found myself liking Manzhuan tea given past experiences. There’s also a bit of calculation at play here — Manzhuan, at least a few years ago, is something that you don’t really advertise. Unlike Yiwu, which is everywhere (and most of those are not really Yiwu), the likelihood of somebody falsely advertising a Manzhuan cake was much, much lower. So, given that this is a few years old, I thought my chances were pretty good at getting the real deal.

The cake looks unremarkable

And it smells and feel a little dry. I wonder what kind of storage these folks have. I used mostly the shavings from the cake that are already loose in the wrapper, plus some leaves that I pried off.

The tea brewed a darkish liquor

It’s quite thick and strong. There’s a hint of sourness in there somewhere, but it’s in the back end, reminding me of a bit of the Manzhuan fruity taste that I have experienced a few times. There’s definitely strength in this tea — I can feel it strongly in my mouth and body. The taste is not the most enjoyable, but it reminds me of the feeling I used to have (and don’t have as often these days) of puerh that feels very raw and strong when young. These days, a lot of the younger cakes taste more like a mixture of green tea and oolong, without that punch that I used to associate with young puerh. This tea had that, but not in a nasty Xiaguan way. I actually liked it… and rate it above yesterday’s tea, even though yesterday’s was surely more refined. I’m not even sure if yesterday’s tea was any better than this in terms of raw quality — there was something too refined about yesterday’s tea. I didn’t feel that coating of my mouth that I do today.

Of course, this might have to do with the fact that I used more shavings and thus stuff came out faster as I brewed, but it easily lasted 10+ infusions without significant drop off. If anything, it lasted longer than the tea yesterday…. probably not a good sign for the Xizihao.

As you can expect, the leaves look broken

Not a very pretty tea at all, but one that I think can keep well over some years. I’ll probably pull it out again in a year or two and check on its progress.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

Return to Innocence

February 3, 2008 · 4 Comments

Today’s tea is the last of the three samples of Xizihao that I acquired, the Puzhen Yuancha. Puzhen is actually a reference to the Chinese idiom, “Fan Pu Gui Zhen”, which means “return to innocence”. According to Hou De, this tea and the Daxueshan “Diangu Yuancha” are the two limited productions for this season, with, of course, a price tag to match. I haven’t had a chance to try the Daxueshan, and since the thing sold out in a flash when it came on the market, I didn’t see a reason why I should. I do, however, admire those with the courage to buy teas they’ve never tried before.

Looking at the poster from Xizihao, it seems like there were only 999 cakes of this tea produced, and so it’s even more limited in quantity than the Daxueshan cake. Hmmm

The dry leaves don’t look too remarkably different from the other teas, at least given the bits and pieces that a sample necessarily entail

The liquor also don’t look drastically different

How does it taste? Compared with the Xishangmeishao, it has better strength, more pleasant, less of the weirdness, thicker, and just overall a better tea. It does, however, remind me of some of the Mengku stuff from a few years ago, tasting like they did when they were very young. Back then, of course, those cakes were quite cheap.

The wet leaves also don’t look quite so mangled

If the Xishangmeishao was a 5 out of 10, then this is probably a 7.5 or maybe an 8, depending on my mood. It’s quite a bit of an improvement over the Xishangmeishao (the nu’ercha is quite different and I won’t really compare them). These days, it seems like one needs to pay big bucks for what is really just ok quality. I’d definitely pay the few dollars extra if I have to get one of these, but I really don’t know if either of them are that interesting. As I think I’ve said quite a few times already, I haven’t really found anything from 2007 terribly exciting, and this is, unfortunately, no exception. A return to innocence this definitely is not — if it were, it would be back to the prices that such cakes charged 2 or 3 years ago. Alas…

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: