A Tea Addict's Journal

Dahongpao

January 29, 2007 · Leave a Comment

I drank some dahongpao today. It’s the supposed tea that is used for the national assembly when they entertain foreign guests. It’s really not bad, although tasting it again, I feel like it changed a little and is not as great as before. I wonder what happened. Storing it in a plastic bag may have done it in.

Since I am not going to be drinking much young puerh these days, it’ll be a good opportunity to test out various kinds of Wuyi teas. However, I just chipped the lid of my pot today :(. It’s not a big damage, but now my otherwise round lid for the pot has a little dent 🙁 🙁

At least I bought it for cheap….

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Switching teas

January 28, 2007 · 1 Comment

My body seems to be protesting my drinking of young raw puerh. Today for dinner there was some (crappy) longjing that I drank, and I felt really unwell. I think until my body gets better and the weather gets warmer, it’ll be mostly Wuyi teas and high fired oolongs, plus a bit of cooked puerh for me for now.

In the spirit of that, I had some cooked puerh today, along with a Hong Kong style milk tea, which is basically super-boiled black tea plus some heavy evaporated milk. Good stuff.

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60s Guangyun Gong

January 27, 2007 · 5 Comments

On the menu today:

This is a piece of an alleged 60s Guangyun Gong from a tea friend in Hong Kong. He bought it as broken pieces, and the guy who sold it to him wasn’t sure what it was either. After some repeated tastings and research and trying to put the pieces together, he thought that this is probably a 60s GYG. As you can see, the cake is rather tightly compressed, and the edge of the cake is a bit tapered. The shape looks plausible…

The first three infusions:

It took a little while before the leaves fully opened up. The storage condition of this piece is somewhat wet, with some white stuff inside the piece as well as on the surface. The leaves are mostly buds, with some stalks and bigger leaves. The taste…. is sweet and mellow. It’s obvious and immediate, with a gentle sweetness coating my whole mouth. There’s not a hint of bitterness, but also no hint of poor storage either in a way that a poorly wet stored cake from, say, the 80s will. The tea is extremely smooth.

I added some splash of high mineral water for the 4th infusion, and the tea became rougher. I turned back the water to a lighter mineral content with a few splahes of very light mineral water (super expensive… from Japan….) and the mouthfeel immediately improved. It’s really quite interesting how water mineral content can really change the way a tea feels in the mouth.

The 15th infusion:

The tea was still going strong. It looks weak, but it doesn’t taste weak. We got more than 20 infusions out of it before I called it quits. It could keep going.

The wet leaves look a bit carbonated

Black, with some brown bits, and you can use cooked puerh to fake this tea, but not the taste…. I don’t know for sure if it’s a 60s GYG, but I’m quite sure this is a tea with at least 30-40 years of age. Younger teas just don’t taste like this.

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Lots of tea

January 26, 2007 · 5 Comments

I went tea shopping today with my girlfriend, mostly to buy stuff for somebody in Hong Kong, and to also show her around where I hang out so much. Let me not bore you with the details…. but let me show you what I bought

Yes, a lot of tea. There was also 500g of Shuixian.

Most of the puerh and all of the Shuixian is for that HK friend. I just bought myself one tong of the puerh. The tea is supposedly “Banzhang Zhengshan”.

The friend’s request was simple. She wanted a bitter and strong tea, for a cheap price. That’s not too hard to do, although it was harder than I thought. Mostly because to meet the price criteria it was not that easy, and to find a tea at the right price bracket that was bitter and strong enough was also tough. I found a cake today for 20 RMB (2.5 USD) but it was just weak. This one, however, is good enough, and still under 4 USD. So I bought a tong for myself, and 2 for the friend as requested.

There was also a bunch of teaware that we got, among which was a puerh plate — those bamboo things that you open cakes on.

During dinner, I brewed tea this way:

Using the Yiwu maocha that I got. It was nice and sweet, no bitterness despite long brewing times. You should all try it 🙂

Some tea leaves

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Back to Beijing

January 24, 2007 · 4 Comments

And what do I drink when I come back to my tea stash? Funny enough, it’s my cooked puerh, that 1kg monster brick.

I haven’t had it since the first time I tried it right after I purchased this brick. Tasting it now, after having had a few other cooked puerhs with L, I think I paid a pretty reasonable price for what it is. It’s not great, and it isn’t anywhere near a nice raw puerh, but it gets the job done… and I think is ultimately better for me in these cold winter days. After drinking young raw puerh sometimes I feel cold, but after this I don’t feel that way at all. It’s also easier on the stomach…

There are a whole bunch of stuff that I bought when I first got to Beijing that are now half a year older, such as the Mengku cakes that I haven’t tasted for at least a few months. Since I got some Mengku sample from Shanghai, I might test it against what I’ve got and see how they compare. That will be my next project.

But the next few days, my girlfriend will be visiting. 🙂

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Difficult question

January 22, 2007 · 6 Comments

Inevitably, when your friends know you as the “tea guy”, they start asking you that very difficult question — “what should I get?  What’s good?  What should I buy as a souvenir for xxx?”

A friend’s friend who is visiting Shanghai asked me that today, and I really was at a loss for an answer.  I thought about longjing, but really, longjing is not very well appreciated, necessarily, by the people who don’t particularly like tea (in this case, the object of the gift-giving are some Americans).  Longjing is also expensive.  The girl then said “would chrysanthemum be good?”, and I thought that might be a good gift — not expensive, tastes reasonable, etc, but then, I am loathe to suggest an herbal tea…

It’s always made more difficult when I ask “so what kind of taste do you like?” the answer will be “I’m not sure — anything good will do”.  Ugh.

So…. if someone asks you this question, especially when buying stuff for someone who knows little to nothing about tea, and if you have an unlimited supply of tea at your disposal, what would you usually suggest?

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Tea tasting again

January 21, 2007 · 1 Comment

Every tea outing in Shanghai seems to be a long tea tasting session, mostly because it tends to be with more people and also because L’s place has a lot of different kinds of tea… today is no different.  Quite a few of us were there, including Bearsbearsbears, L, and J.

We mostly drank Bearsbearsbears’ teas today, stuff he brought back from Taiwan.

We started with the 2003 Wild Yiwu from Stephane Erler, which BBB got a sample of.  The leaves are a bit dark, but nothing too distinctive.  We had a lot of people, so we used a big gaiwan with about 10-11g of tea in there.  I flaked the piece as best I could, layering it so that none of the leaves are broken unnecessarily.

The tea is very smooth and sweet, and very drinkable right now.  It’s got an odd flavour, with little bitterness and no astringency.  In fact, it doesn’t taste like puerh at all, of any kind, that I’ve had.  The polite way of saying this is that this is different, the not so polite way is to say this is probably not puerh done in the traditional way.  The leaves are very broken, despite my best efforts, and were quite chopped up.  Although the flavours are generally pleasant, they are thin, and weak, and stay only on the tongue with absolutely no aftertaste of any kind.  Not exactly a good tea in my opinion, but good for those who want to drink their puerh now (not that I’m sure this is actually a puerh), but if you are paying that kind of money for one cake to drink now…. why not buy an oolong?  Much nicer in taste.

Then we had two teas by Chen Zhitong, the guy who wrote The Profound World of Chi-Tse.  The first is a “Yiwu” wild tea, supposedly, which consists of what seems like older leaves that is generally cosnidered as lower grade stuff.  The taste is a little spicy initially, with some aftertaste in the throat, and a deeper flavour than Erler’s tea.  Still a bit weird, and sourness developed after a few infusions.  It’s a bit of an odd tea, and I’m not sure if I’ll ever buy something like that.

The second one is better.  It’s got a good, strong aftertaste, a full flavour, and very nice qi that was immediately obvious.  Not too expensive for what it is (something like $20 USD or so).  I liked it, and if I see it, I might buy it, but that will have to wait till Taiwan at the second half of this year.  Both of these teas were brewed using about the same amount of tea.

Then…. it was a tea by Zhou Yu, the owner of Wisteria in Taipei.  It was an interesting tea — very long leaves, and apparently quite prized by Zhou Yu.  Expensive, but quite good.  We used very little leaves.  The tea, though weak (because of the extremely low amount of leaves), was flavourful and interesting.  Not sure I know how it will turn out in a few years though…  gotta give it to the Taiwanese for making up all these new gimmicks.  I think I am more conservative and just want to have more regular teas.

The last one was a loose puerh from Zhou Yu as well, from the 60s, supposedly.  It’s cheap… and the reason is clear.  It tastes cooked, for some reason, and I think it’s just a poorly stored tea that basically got cooked over time.  It’s nice, and very drinkable, and for the price is not bad at all.  It’s just not what you might be hoping for in a 60s tea if you were imaginging some great stuff.  Good, and nice 🙂

So thanks to BBB for all the teas…. and we might meet again before I leave, or if I decide to come back to Shanghai after going back to Beijing.

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Another day of tea

January 20, 2007 · Leave a Comment

Another day with tea with L today.

On the plate was, first, a Mengku cake from 2000 or so that was traditionally stored.  Surprisingly, it’s really quite good.  Very aromatic, smooth, sweet, nice, and fragrant.  Not a lot of the nasty taste of a wet stored cake, and could easily masquerade as a 10 years old + tea.  I like it.

Then, we had a Menghai factory Mengsong cake (the peacock ones).  It’s quite expensive for a 2 years old tea, and really not that interesting.  It’s smokey, with some nice flavours but mostly just bitter and astrigent.  I really didn’t like it that much.  It’s got an interesting flavour profile, but I’m not sure if it’s worth all the money.  In fact, I have rarely found a Menghai factory cake that’s new that is actually worth the $$$ they want for it.  The price is simply artificially inflated….

More teas tomorrow with L, J, and Bearsbearsbears.  Busy!

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Tea tasting with a lot of people

January 19, 2007 · 1 Comment

Today was a big event…. tea tasting with L, J, and Bearsbearsbears.  We met up before lunch, had two teas (one Menghai Bada Shan, one Zhongcha Bada Shan) and then got some food, after which we headed over to L’s friend, G, to try some teas.

G is an odd person.  He lives on top of a dual use building, with a nice view.  When we got there, his wife/companion was still in her pyjamas, drinking some tea, and I think G wasn’t even really up yet.  It’s a fairly big place, with a big coffee table that is filled with teaware that dominates the room.

We sat down, and soon we were underway.  The first tea we tried was a 1980s Tongqing Hao, which was really mediocre and wet to the hilt.  It was wet, wet, wet.  This is the sort of wet stored tea that leaves a nasty feeling in your throat.

Then we had a 50 years old 1000 taels tea.  It was nice.  It was not great, but not bad.  I enjoyed it.  Nothing too much to write home about — I’ve had better.

Then it was a newer tea.  G proclaims proudly that he doesn’t own any tea that is produced after 2000.  He seems to have bought, or is about to buy, a lot of this following cake we’re going to taste.  The tea is wrapped in the Zhongcha wrapper from the old days, of the original Yellow Label design.  This is a newer tea, looks quite young, and when he asked me how old I think it is, I gave the honest answer of 3-5 years.  He said “no!” and told me how none of the teas he has is younger than 7 years old, blah blah blah… so we brewed this one up.  It was, at most, about 5 years old.  It first only tasted mildly like the Lincang stuff I’ve had before, and the first infusion was quite nice, but as we went further along the tea got worse (rougher, more bitter, etc) and less interesting, and also more and more like Lincang stuff (Mengku, Fengqing, etc).  Lincang stuff of about 5 years aging should be pretty cheap, as they are produced in large quantities and prices simply aren’t high for this area.  He said he might be buying this cake for 250 RMB a piece or so.  I think it’s a ripoff, but I had to just smile and nod and say it’s not that expensive.  The guy doesn’t like to take no for an answer.

Then it was a cooked brick from the 80s.  While it’s entirely ok and mellow, it was a cooked brick, and one should not expect too much from a cooked brick.

In between all these, we had a conversation about how I am a PhD student studying history, and he showed us a 100 years old tea, supposedly.  It looks rather unremarkable, and he wasnt’ about to let us try it.  He also showed us what looked like a real Songpin Hao, but he wasn’t going to let us try that either.  So…. all in all, we didn’t have many interesting teas today.  They were all broadly similar, and really not that exciting.

After that, we went to tea shopping at the Tianshan market.  BBB thinks he’s coming back for the teaware, while I just looked at all the puerh stores.  We tried three teas total, all at my request… the first was a Haiwan Laotongzhi, which, oddly enough, tastes much nicer than I imagined.  The second and third were both “old tree”.  The first was a “Yiwu” that didn’t really taste like Yiwu.  It was cheap too… makes you wonder, doesn’t it?  I suspect it might be summer leaves masquerading as big tree leaves…. makes the tea look nice but really not that flavourful.  It looks better than it tasted.  The second was similar… more intense, but half the price.  Still not that interesting, and I think I can find stuff that is better, even if for a higher price…

All in all, a long day of drinking tea (and which got me a little uncomfortable as I started feeling the effects of it through dinner).  We ended the day with a drink at a bar, and I tried, for the first time, a Chivas Regal Royal Salute.  I was tasting it like a tea… smooth, sweet (it’s relative), with a nice aftertaste, and really quite pleasant.  I think I like it better than the JW Blue Label.  But ok, this is a digression.

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Tea production

January 18, 2007 · 1 Comment

I’m in green tea land.  Everybody drinks green tea here, pretty much.  Longjing is taken quite seriously, with last night’s dinner discussion partially centered around the differences of Meijiawu and Longwu longjing.  I feel ashamed that I don’t know that much about this drink anymore.  Although I can tell a good one from a bad one, I can’t tell the production locales, much less the finer distinctions in gradations.

It is, in many ways, the most versatile of teas.  Different greens do taste quite drastically different.  Using the same leaves, if you press on the pan instead of rolling the leaves on the pan, the taste will come out different.  While puerh “kill-green” is a pretty simple and unscientific process, longjing kill-green is an art form.  Everything from the temperature to the pressure is quite systematic and carefully done, because any variation can cause a detectable change in taste.  Puerh, from picking to production, is all done in such a carefree way — no specific time, no specific way of killing green, no control of temperature, etc.  Green tea is so exact.  I always wondered what will happen to puerh if somebody bothered to control all these variables and try to make it more of an exact science.  Will it produce better teas?

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