A Tea Addict's Journal

Entries from November 2006

2004 Yangqing Hao Yiwu Zhencang Chawang

November 21, 2006 · 4 Comments

This is what’s on the menu today — the 2004 Yangqing Hao from Hou De.

My girlfriend brought it over after I ordered it and had it shipped to her in the US. We did the transfer in Paris, and now it’s with me, along with another sample.

The dry leaves don’t look very remarkable, other than looking Yiwu-ish. One interesting thing though — when I sniffed the dry leaves (more like inhaling very deeply, actually) there is very little aroma. I couldn’t detect anything overtly strong. On the other hand, I remember the 2005 Yangqing Hao has a very obvious aroma. Food for thought.

So I brewed it according, again, to the 30/60/perpetual 30 rule…

Infusion 1

Amount of leaves after infusion 1

Infusion 3

How’s the tea?

It’s great.

It has the first hint of aged-taste. It’s not very prominent yet, but it’s there, and quite quickly, when you think about it… it’s only 2 years old. The tea is nice, thick, balanced, a little bitter, good huigan, “proper” aromas, no off tastes, smooth, endured lots of infusions… I couldn’t really find any faults with it, except that there’s no extension down the throat that I thought I would get. It didn’t go down the throat… all that aroma/taste/”mouthfeel” stopped at the back of the mouth/beginning of the throat. Of course, the price is also a little steep, but as a tea without regards to price, I could find nothing wrong with it. I liked it.

How it looked after I’m done.

Wet shots — that’s a 2 EUR coin, about the size of a quarter. It also gives you a scale to see how thick those bands are on my bamboo tray. This will provide an instant scale from now on, I hope 🙂

If my Yiwu cakes can turn out like this in two years…. I’ll be very happy.

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2006 12 Gentlemen Arbor tree cake

November 20, 2006 · 1 Comment

I tried another of “12 gentlemen”‘s cake today — an arbor big tree cake from Spring 06.

The piece looks small, but is actually quite large. It’s the center of the cake.

I realize that shooting into the gaiwan doesn’t really tell you how much tea I put in…. and you lose all perspective. It was about 1/4 full, but I think I put too much in today — I knew it from the start, but went ahead anyway. The compression was very tight, so I ended up having too strong a brew…

I did the 30/60/30 — and then repeated 30s.

This is first infusion

And third

The tea…. well, it has a nice body. Round, full, smooth. It goes down well. The first infusion the tea was still brewing up, so not terribly bitter, a bit sweet — hints of the Yiwu stuff in this. Some Yiwu is probably mixed in here, among other things. Then the infusions got more bitter, huigan is evident, although bitterness is strong. It tastes… like any old puerh that is properly made. I think on the whole it’s probably made in the proper way, waiting for age to do its thing. It will probably age into something nice. How nice, I’m not sure.

However, I’m not sure if it’s all arbor big tree. It’s a bit more mellow than some of the obvious plantation stuff, but it’s not that far from some cakes I’ve tasted from Menghai or other places that are obviously not arbor big tree. Since we all know that the definition of arbor big tree is pretty flexible…. maybe these are transition type stuff that recently made it out of the “small tree” category. Or, these are planted, managed, well farmed big tree, since they didn’t say anything about wild or let-loose.

Will I buy it? Depending on the price. I might eventually get one or two, as a sort of insurance policy. A lot of the stuff I have are single mountain stuff. I fear that they might turn a bit uni-dimensional when aged.

The brewed leaves are quite broken, but unlike somebody, I don’t blame the manufacturer since I think it is broken mostly because of the way the cake was broken up. If I peeled layers off instead of getting a piece that is already broken like that, the leaves would’ve been more whole.

On another front — the wet storage project is proceeding. Today I used the humidifier to spray water all over the cake (it’s still going on). The front of the cake feels damp. The wrapper, which I put under the cake, is wet. Interesting note — the neifei got two tea stains on it. So if you have a cake less than 10 years old with tea stain on the neifei….. it’s probably from water (I’ve been told older teas will have OIL stains from the tea, but I’m not sure if that’s actually true). It might be too wet for another round tomorrow…. we’ll see how it dries overnight.

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“Home stored puerh” from Best Tea House

November 19, 2006 · 3 Comments

I wanted something mellow today for a change. Yesterday was a little much, as usual. I can only take so much tea before feeling a little uneasy.

So I opted for the cheap puerh from the Best Tea House. It’s called “Home Stored Puerh”. This is one of the grades in the traditional Hong Kong gradations. Home Stored is the lowest grade, usually, with “carefully stored” slightly better, and “unknown year” usually the best. In the old days, nobody cared much about vintage and make and all that, so puerh were just called by these names and they were all formula teas — mixed together for taste and price from different kinds of teas. The tradition lives on.

Home stored puerh at the BTH used to be about half the price of what it is now, and I have to say the quality actually went down while prices went up 🙁

It’s mostly some cooked puerh with some wet stored puerh, and a little bit of dry stored mixed in for flavour. Yeah, doesn’t sound that great does it? The brew that comes out of this tea is mostly dark brown. The taste is mellow, earthy, approaching that of cooked puerh, but I think a little more complex, and lasts a bit longer in terms of infusions.

You can see evidence of mxing in the leaves

With raw puerh — some looking like dry stored raw puerh of decent age

And then the black, charcoal-like stuff that is more commonly seen in cooked puerh

Not terrible for regular drinking. I did, after all, start drinking puerh with this kind of thing.

Incidentally, I am thinking of running an experiment with the Longyuan Hao cake I got that I don’t think i will drink very much. What I am going to do is going to go through a mini wet storage with it… using it as a sample. I will put it under the stream of vapour that comes out of the humidifier everyday, and then let it dry overnight, and then repeat this pretty much everyday, and see how it ages. It should, I’d imagine, age a lot faster with this kind of process. Will it produce something drinkable (and recognizably puerh) by the end of my time here in Beijing? Or will I just end up with a cake of mouldy tea that I don’t want to touch?

I guess we’ll find out.

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Chayuan walkthrough

November 18, 2006 · 5 Comments

Maliandao it was today. When I was walking to Chayuan, I saw this

Which means “demolition”. Apparently, the Jingdinglong Tea Market is scheduled for demolition, no doubt to make way for a newer, shinier, better tea market. It is sort of odd to see all the stores being open one week, and when I came back you see storefronts like this

Nice eh?

I thought it will be good to do a thorough walkthrough of Chayuan, instead of just hitting random stores like I used to, so I walked around methodically. Basically, Chayuan is a grid, and most of the hallways look like this

Which makes it rather difficult to find any particular store in there, unless you already know where it is.

I stopped at one store today, selling a cake called “Gold Yiwu”. It was an interesting store — very large premises with very few cakes on offer. This was the only thing that remotely looked interested. I sat down, tasted it… and thought it tastes like something like the 0622 with a bit of age, as it is aged 3 years. Nothing interesting, although the taste was proper puerh….. except it sells for $100 USD. I balked, and just left. They must’ve been joking.

I then walked around….. until I hit the Pu Chazhaung. This is a store that sells mostly Changtai stuff. I’ve been here a few times, but never sat down to taste anything, mostly because they were always busy with something…. shipping stuff, or organizing stuff, or whatever. This time, nobody was in the store, so in I went.

I sat down, and ended up tasting four cakes and buying two. These two were the best in terms of quality vs price. While there was one that was better (and more aged), it was also more expensive and I wasn’t quite willing to dole out that much. I might go back to get something like that that’s a bit more aged, but I also can probably find something in that quality bracket minus a few years age and for a lot less money.

Interestingly, everybody today thought I’m a tea merchant of some sort, and kept telling me which ones they have a whole jian of and how many jians they have left. I don’t know why I seem to be giving that impression today… but the quoted prices at Pu Chazhuang were very reasonable to start off with, so I didn’t need to bargain down very hard (nor was there a whole lot of room to do so, I think…)

What I got were:

An 2005 Yichang Hao Mangzhi, and…

Two 2005 Yichang Hao Mengsa.

Neither are the greatest things ever, but they weren’t very pricey. The Mengsa is obviously a little more punchy than the Mangzhi, which is a little more fruity and mellow. They were decent tasting puerh that seemed to have been made with proper craftsmanship, and should have aging potential, I think.

I think the girl was disappointed I only got three cakes, and seemed a little disinterested at the end. I wonder if she was just hungry for food, or if I was annoying her for my small purchase. Whatever. I might go back again and see if there are other things worth considering. Then again, I really should slow down my purchases. I have too many cakes.

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Expensive dahongpao

November 17, 2006 · 3 Comments

I thought I was going to go to Maliandao, but jetlag and errands held me up. Since I basically didn’t sleep the night before, and since Paris time is 7 hours behind Beijing time… I woke up pretty late, too late to go after I ran my errands. Oh well, tomorrow.

I opened up another bag of tea today, one of the Dahongpaos I got with the Lapsang Souchong. This is the expensive one (I just grabbed one of the bags without looking).

By the way, I realize my photos have been pretty utilitarian — not much in the way of embellishment, decorations, nice settings, little kids, that kind of thing. Hope you folks don’t mind. I figured this way we’re only focusing on the tea and is more uniform, making for better comparisons and documentation, which is the point of this blog anyway.

This is how the tea looks in liquid form

The colour is fairly uniform throughout. The tea… is quite delicate, for lack of a better word. It’s not a strong, heavy kind of Wuyi, but rather the soft, supple kind. I didn’t buy it so much for the taste, which I am only ok with, but rather the mouthfeel and, most importantly, the cha qi. The mouthfeel is smooth, soft, much like the flavours of the tea. It’s very “round”. I found a very strong cha qi with this tea, at least in my reaction of it. I felt it again today.

I think this tea might be good for aging a bit and then trying again. It might just get better.

The leaves are still quite wrinkled after about 10 infusions, which, according to somebody I talked to, means that this is hand-rolled. He said the machine rolled stuff unfurls quickly, whereas the hand rolled stuff stay rolled. I don’t know if that’s true. I put the lighter there to give it some scale. No, I don’t smoke. This is for lighting the water boiler.

Maliandao tomorrow. I probably shouldn’t buy anything though…. I just bought two cakes online today….

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Jetlagged

November 16, 2006 · 6 Comments

It is difficult to go back from Paris to Beijing. Paris is so much nicer.

After the longish flight, I was tired, so I ate lunch and then came back to drink some of those aged loose puerh from Best Tea House. I haven’t had good tea in a while, and it’s a nice change. I noticed the water is a bit thin, and oddly enough, the talcum powder taste/aroma is still there. I don’t know how. Does it have to do with my pot???

Too tired to do anything else today. I think I might go to Maliandao tomorrow in order to keep myself from the (very great) temptation of plopping on the bed at 3pm and then condemning myself to a week’s worth of jetlag.

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Paris tea gathering

November 14, 2006 · 2 Comments

Tea brings together lots of people. From the vendors and salespersons whom I have met throughout the years, to tea friends I meet in teahouses, to internet bloggers and other active participants on communities like the one on livejournal, I have met lots of people through tea — people whom I otherwise will never have met because our lives have almost no chance of crossing.

Today was a meeting with one more such person. I met up with a reader of my blog who lives in Paris. We went to his house and tasted some of his collections — which is way bigger than mine.

After browsing through his stuff a bit (which includes a lot of teas from Maison de Trois Thes or M3T, more on them later) we decided to start off with tasting the 2005 Yangqing Hao Yiwu to get warmed up. After all, I haven’t had good teas for a few days.

I remember the reviews for the 2005 Yangqing Hao was mixed. Some liked it, others panned it. Now I get to taste it for myself….

We brewed it, and the first two infusions….. the liquor is slightly orangy. Then I thought we should do a more systematic way of tasting, so we brewed it according to the Sanzui method — 30s, 60s, 30s, and pouring the water low, touching the rim of the gaiwan and causing no ripples.

The tea…. tasted like green tea. It smelled like green tea, and tasted like green tea. This was especially evident in the last 30s infusion. There’s some huigan, and some “throat-feel”. However, the green tea taste is unsettling. I think this is why BBB told me this cake is fickle to brew…. it’s got problems. I don’t like it, and neither does my host. He is drinking it as a “drink it now”. It’s not bad for drinking now, I think.

Next up was an oddity, something I’ve never seen before.

My host said this is from the M3T, and that they claim it’s a special order batch made for them in (IIRC) 04. This is a mini-cake.

The tea is not bad. It is starting to age a bit, and I think it probably has some wild tea mixed in. One thing was interesting, however. Using the 30/60/30 method…. the tea is BITTER. It is VERY BITTER. It was bitter through and through, and the bitterness doesn’t go away for a good while…. which is a bit odd. I’m not sure what to make of it, and rarely do I taste something like this. Quite interesting, I have to say, and it has nice notes. The bitterness throws me off a bit. Maybe eventually it will mellow out a bit to become less bitter and more sweet?

This brings me to my gripe about M3T. Although I haven’t been there, I have heard from more than one source now that the place is rather nasty. This is not to say their tea is bad, but rather, that the store has bad practices. First of all…. it doesn’t let you sample teas, so if you want to try something, you must pay the single-tasting fee at the store to drink it there. They also, apparently, are rather secretive about their teas. They don’t tell you any sort of real information, such as manufacturer, storage condition, etc. They are also rather snobbish about their tea, supposedly. I don’t know for sure, as I’ve never been there, but I can imagine.

While I don’t have a problem about this, necessarily, if they are honest about their teas, but it seems like they might be a little less than honest. For example….

This is a cake that is, I think, claimed to be 85 that my host owns. The tea, from what little research I’ve been able to do since I got back, seems rather to be a 90s production. That makes sense, because this Tongqing hao brand was revived by a Taiwanese merchant, and in the mid 80s puerh was not a known quantity in Taiwan yet, as far as I’m aware, so dating the cake to 85 would seem pretty problematic. It’s also gone through obvious wet storage, which in and of itself is not a sin (after all, they didn’t claim it to be dry storage). We didn’t end up drinking this.

Why do people still buy stuff from vendors like this, who refuse to tell you things and who seem to lie about their teas? Because, as my host says, “it’s like you’re a heroin addict — this is the only dealer you can buy from”.

On with the tastings.

We drank this next

This is, if I’m not mistaken, the 1999 original Yichang Hao Jipin cake. 1999 was when Yichang Hao first made some cakes, and became famous (and grew to be the Changtai Tea Group it is today). I didn’t take a picture of the cake itself… but it looks good. No obvious white stuff, etc, seems fine.

We tried the tea… it’s quite nice. Using the 30/60/30 method, the tea is quite tasty, with lots of camphor notes and other pleasant tastes. The tea does not have any of those unpleasant things like closing up your throat or drying you out, instead it feels like it’s a rounded tea that moisturizes your mouth. Overall, very nice, and I can see why Changtai got famous making this cake. Too bad not all their cakes are like this.

We ended with a Yiwu tuo that is also from M3T…. it brewed up a ricey tasting tea. It’s gone through some wet storage, and I’m not sure how old it actually is. I’ve seen the wrapper, but can’t remember for the life of me what or who made them. I need to do a little more research.

We ended with cheese and dinner. It was a very nice day drinking tea in Paris, and I have made one more tea friend 🙂

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Wine and coffee

November 13, 2006 · 3 Comments

Contrary to popular belief, I’m actually drinking some wine here.  Tonight I went to the local wine store to pick up a bottle (because none of my brother in law’s collection is stuff he wants us to open right now — most being 10 years old or more).  I picked a bottle out at random — some Chateau du Cartillon, Haut-Medoc, 2002, that tasted quite decent.  It was pretty smooth, but aside from that, I realize I don’t know how to describe a wine’s taste.

However, since I haven’t been consuming alcohol much these days, my tolerance is really low.  That’s one good thing about tea — you don’t need to train yourself for tolerance, although I suppose drinking lots of tea in one day, a la Maliandao, requires some practice.

During my trip here so far I have also had a bit of coffee…. of the espresso variety (since you can rarely find dripcoffee here).  Coffee’s one great problem, for a tea drinker like me, is that it is bitter to the end.  There’s no huigan, the bitterness doesn’t turn to sweetness like it does in tea.  The flavours I find largely unpleasant — heavy roasting plus the bitterness makes for a bad drink.  I do not understand those who enjoy a cup of coffee.  They obviously haven’t tried good tea 🙂

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Jinxuan oolong

November 12, 2006 · 2 Comments

I had some Jinxuan tea yesterday at my sister’s after dinner (coffee’s really not my thing, more on that another day). The Jinxuan is stuff I bought her before she moved here, so we’re talking a year old tea that’s a little stale now. One interesting observation — the brewed leaves are 100% green, no red at all, but this is, after all, an oolong. This makes me think that even when you look at puerh leaves that are brewed…. colour is not a good indication (or not a foolproof one anyway) of having or lacking pre-fermentation.

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Lapsang souchong in a bag

November 11, 2006 · 2 Comments

I had a break yesterday between all the museum hopping and eating around, and my girlfriend and I sat down at a cafe to get a drink. I saw a lapsang souchong on the menu, so I decided to try it and see how it compares (since I pretty much never drinks this tea). It was a tea bag, but of a somewhat premium kind, I think, using a silk bag instead of just a regular paper bag.

The taste…. well… the water was thin, the tea was a tad sour in the aftertaste, overwhelmingly smokey, not very fragrant…. mine’s so much better :p

So now I know I didn’t buy the wrong thing. Yay.

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