A Tea Addict's Journal

Entries from May 2008

What not to do with a teabag

May 23, 2008 · 3 Comments

Once in a while I will slum it — when I’m on the road, needing some caffeine uptake and have no tea with me, a tea bag isn’t a horrible thing. Not that it happens often, but it does happen.

Today’s little bag though intrigued me…. why, pray tell, would you make a teabag so small? It’s about 2cm in diameter or thereabouts. The leaves in the bag are obviously too tightly packed to have room to expand. While this is all right if you’re brewing it in a tiny vessel with short infusions and very hot water, it’s not ok if it’s a big (maybe 400cc?) cup with water that will soon cool to much less than 100C. Who designed this thing? Don’t waste my Assam!

I think sometimes when teabag makers try to get creative perhaps the marketing people get too much influence and this sort of thing happens. It looks rather interesting, but it doesn’t work.

The same can be said of all those tea balls out there — I remember having a friend who tried to brew tieguanyin using a tea ball. As you can imagine, it doesn’t work — the tea expands so much that there’s simply no room to expand in the cup, resulting in lots of wasted leaves. I suggested my friend to use one of those mugs with a removable filter (sort of like a Korean infuser cup — can somebody remind me of their name?). It worked much better.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

How it happened

May 22, 2008 · 1 Comment

So, how did I break the thing anyway?

No, it did not involve catastrophic drops or bangs or anything, in fact, it was quite routine — which made it all the more surprising.

See…. this pot (and many others I own) have a single hole design. Single holed pots are more prone to leaves getting stuck in them. Personally, I don’t mind it very much. I actually prefer it to multi-holed pots. Don’t ask me why.

Normally, when a pot gets stuck, I use the little tool that we all have — that long, thin thing that was designed for this purpose. Ok, good, except that this time, when I was pulling it out, it seems that the slightly oval cross section means that one side was wider than the other, and when the pulling out was coupled with a slight (unwitting) turning motion….. it pushed on the walls of the spout, and it snapped.

Older yixings tend to be a little less sturdy. This is a well known fact — people I know in HK who are more experienced than I in older pots all tell me to be careful with them, especially the handles, which break off all the time. Alas, it applies to spouts too.

So, now I am going to be very careful using that spout clearing tool. I know I’m not the only one who had this happen — Danica of the LA Tea Group also had (from what she described) an identical accident with an older pot. Be careful when you use that thing!

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

A minor disaster

May 20, 2008 · 10 Comments

I’m fully guilty of causing this.

I have the original piece…. and it sort of still fits. I’m thinking of just using super glue.

Despite all the talk about glue maybe changing the way the tea taste… I can’t really bear the sight. The pot is still usable right now, but I don’t think I can use it in this condition.

How much formaldehyde can be released by a small amount of super glue to stick this piece back on anyway? Not much, right? Don’t our bodies produce that stuff anyway? I’m sure with enough tea… the carcinogenic effects of this wonderful compound will be neutralized….

Sigh, excuse me if I seem to be moody today.

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Some newish oolong

May 20, 2008 · 2 Comments

This is a tea I bought from the candy store but which I never drank… the first tea I got from them, actually. At that time, I was asking them for “aged oolong”, and got this. I figured it was not old enough — so asked for the other things, which, of course, led to a treasure trove…

This tea was well sealed, and I finally opened it today. When brewed….

Light in colour, smells young, but tastes a little older than very young. In fact, there’s that typical greennness in the taste/flavour — but you can tell it’s gone down from when it was first made. I am guessing this tea is maybe 3-5 years of age. Instead, the sweetness is more obvious than otherwise, and overbrewing does not produce the nasty, nasty grassy notes that you sometimes get with Taiwanese tea.

I wonder if this is a good candidate for personal storage — I have a feeling it could be, given the right conditions.

Yet, this tea is also more expensive than most of their older tea, which begs the question — why bother??

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

On contradictions among Tea People

May 19, 2008 · 7 Comments

I remember when I was a kid, puerh was some nasty, bitter stuff that nobody sane should drink. Going to eat dim sum and having puerh…. I’d skip the puerh and just eat the dim sum.

Now, of course, things have changed, and puerh is no longer so bitter. I had some traditionally stored stuff from Hong Kong today, and it was smooth, sweet, and quite good for an afternoon (and evening) of tea.

Very often such teas are described as musty, but I tend to think that the properly aged ones, especially if given suitable time in a dry environment, should not be musty at all. Earthy, of course, but not musty. It is often difficult to resist the temptation to drink such things right away when one has acquired them, because, well, they are purchased with money and nobody really wants to sit on things they bought and not touch them. Yet, I think sometimes anyway, such things should indeed be left alone even after purchase. The tea I had today was, I think, more musty when I first got it — coming straight out of a very traditional storage condition where the teas had plenty of time to rot. Two years later, drinking it now, I think it is much better — smoother without the strong storage taste. Traditionally stored taste will never leave the tea, but smooth, aged puerh taste doesn’t have to be musty.

That, in fact, is what I worry about when I read pages after pages of talk, both in English and Chinese, about how traditional storage is no good and how one can’t stand such musty taste (very common among Chinese drinkers from drier climes, such as Beijing and Kunming) and how teas must be “clean”. When given a truly old tea, traditionally stored, to drink, they often think it is cooked. Therein lies the irony — cooked tea was, in many ways, an attempt by man to approximate the taste of aged puerh. Yet, now, aged puerh is mistaken as cooked.

The other more obvious irony is, of course, how cooked tea is just as, if not more, unsanitary as traditionally stored tea, especially if it’s coming from a smaller factory with unknown procedures for doing these things. I was just talking with my friend L from Beijing today, and he said after his visit to a puerh factory’s cooked tea section, he will never ever drink a small factory cooked cake again — it’s just too disgusting. Yet, out of sight and out of mind, I never hear any of these tea drinkers who demand “clean” tea telling me that cooked tea is dirty. Instead, cooked tea is wonderful — rich, smooth, good for your stomach — everything a raw tea is not (and there’s really no need for me to go through the usual arguments for raw tea, is there?).

The usual retort from those who don’t subscribe to such heretical views that traditionally stored tea is bad is that they are usually espoused by people who don’t own any old, traditionally stored teas. If you only sell cakes that are 5 years old or less, all stored in a dry climate, then why would you promote a tea that you don’t have access to and that can’t be produced in your location? Indeed, it’s like a longjing seller telling you that longjing is really not that good — you should drink sencha instead. Doesn’t happen. Of course, the same people who criticize are also the ones who do the exact opposite — dry stored teas or young teas, so I have been told, are no good. They are bad for your body (that’s actually true), and they taste awful (taste depends on individuals, as everybody discovers at some point). Therefore, only what they have is good.

While it is not as common in the online world, but I know some cases of “tea master”s out there who have, over time, changed positions on a number of things that they used to hold true. A case I’ve heard was actually regarding storage of oolongs — first, tea master said, only high fired oolongs can be stored. Then, after a while, tea master said low fired oolongs can also be stored. The person who told me about this noted that the change in position somehow coincided with a change in the composition of the oolongs on sale at said tea master’s store. You probably don’t need me to tell you how the composition of the teas on sale changed.

I know I often seem (ok, am) quite skeptical with any sort of claims made by almost anybody regarding tea. I do have long held beliefs, but am not completely closed to changing of my mind given enough evidence. I do think, however, that it is very easy, especially when one’s source of information is only the internet, to buy too much into one side of the story without hearing another, or to treat information given by some authoritative individuals as somehow better, especially if said individual happens to sell some teas that fit right into the description of whatever is being taught. I remember being trapped that way before, and perhaps it is a case of once bitten, twice shy. I’m not saying the internet is full of snakes, but snakes can come in all forms — sometimes involuntary ones who are merely passing on bad information from others. Challenges to claims being made is generally a good thing — after all, that’s how we advance our knowledge on any given subject. If I ever make grandiose claims you think is hot air, please let me know. It’ll help keep me honest.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

Telling tetsubins apart

May 18, 2008 · 18 Comments

Tetsubins come in all shapes and sizes. Here are three that I own, as well as the smaller, flatter hobnail one that I had trouble with trying to de-smell. Since switching to it, I’ve found it does help with the tea I brew — it’s gained a bit of a deeper flavour, and is probably especially suited to the types of tea I normally drink, which is mainly aged teas these days. It also gives Wuyi teas a nice aftertaste that is more pronounced than with my Braun kettle.

As you can see… they’re not the same at all.

I think when picking out a tetsubin, there are a few things to keep in mind, aside from the obvious question of cost. First — is it a used item or is it new? New ones tend to have enamel lining inside, which neutralizes any effect it might have on your water. The enamel will break off eventually, especially if you heat the pot on the stove directly. If it’s used — how much rust is there in the pot? Does it leak? When I bought my leftmost pot, that was the problem — there was a hole in it and it leaks. Then, I got the rightmost one, which was a newer make, and lightly used. A bit of rust (I’ve since added to it a little — iron will rust no matter what you do), but nothing problematic and makes nice water. Then, very recently, I acquired the middle one for a very low price (around $50). It’s a heavily used item, also not very well kept, thus the outer surface is rusty. You can see it clearly here

Not the prettiest, but I liked the shape of the thing. I also liked the minor details

Generally speaking, after having looked through many, many of these online, I’ve noted that the cheaper ones are the ones with the solid iron lids — lids that are made of the same cast iron as the kettle itself. Better ones will invariably have other kinds of lids, made of some sort of copper alloy usually, but very rarely also of silver (which sends the price of the tetsubin skyrocketing). Under the lid is sometimes written the name of the maker

In this case Ryubundo, a famous and also very prolific tetsubin maker that, I believe, got started in the Meiji period. They’re still making tetsubins today, I think, and although well known and famous, Ryubundo tetsubins are actually quite common — you can easily find one from Japan if you look. However, I’ve seen places that sell just lids for tetsubins by the dozen — of various kinds, usually, I’d imagine, from old rusted and broken tetsubins. The lids, however, are worth money, and a non-famous maker tetsubin can be made into something else with the addition of a nice (and hopefully fitting) lid.

I think my right hand one, i.e. the most often used one, is of the usual simple design — a plain pattern with some sort of uniform surface. These are quite common, and generally cheaper, especially if there’s no maker’s name, but even if there are they don’t exceed maybe $200 or so in price. The ones that are wholly iron are even cheaper.

Then, however, you get into more expensive territory when they start having designs on them. The left hand one is of a simpler form — some sort of relief pattern of whatever it is — ranging from animals to leaves to geometric patterns to flowers to VERY elaborate relief patterns of houses, rocks, etc. Some are tasteful, others are gaudy. Some also have old kamon, or family crests, of important families. Those can be quite nice and rustic, but those also tend to be expensive. Of course, these things depend on individual taste.

It’s worth keeping an eye out for the way the handle is made too — sometimes the handles are also elaborately designed, whether with some inlaid patterns, as my middle one does (though much faded), or in some cases, with detailed sculpted patterns and figures. Both the patterns on the handles and on the body itself can be highly decorative and sometimes made of other precious metals, usually silver, sometimes gold. Those, again, will drive the price of the items up into the stratosphere.

I sometimes see these tetsubins having a very shiny black surface with zero rust, which I find incredible because if you use it, it’s going to rust, in and out (slight rusting on the outside is hard to avoid when it deals with water all the time). So my guess is, they somehow rub it off or polish it with something, although I don’t know what. If anybody does know, please let me know 🙂

Find ones with original boxes — and make sure (if you can read Japanese — or ask friends who do) they’re the original, not some substitute. Of course, that’s not always possible, and if you just want function, ones without the original wood box work just as well, but the wood box cost money, and the value of your item is substantially lower to collectors if there’s no box that comes with it. My “new” one comes with a very nice weathered box. I don’t think it’s the original, but I wasn’t about to complain for the price I paid, flawed though the piece may be. The box, if nothing else, gives the item an extra air of history to it. I’m a sucker for those things.

Tetsubins are by no means rare, since the Japanese seemed to have produced them in prodigious quantities. A search on Trocadero will yield a number of fine ones, some of which I personally think are fairly reasonably priced (for the quality, anyway). One downside to these things — they’re heavy, so I think I’ll be capping my purchase of these things for now until I don’t have to move again any time soon, because otherwise, it’ll be hell to move.

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Drinking matcha

May 17, 2008 · 4 Comments

Last time I had matcha, it was in Uji about five years ago. There’s a tea culture center in Uji, behind the magnificent Byodo-in. There, you can have the cheapest proper tea ceremony done for you in Japan — I think it was 500 yen per person. The tea room is a bit on the big side, as I’m sure they have to accomodate a large number of people sometimes, tour groups and all. I don’t remember much of the tea — it wasn’t something to really write home about. I just remember my legs almost giving out by trying to sit properly with my knees in front of me. I think I lasted 15 minutes before giving up.

So here I am, trying to make this drink again. I’ve trying playing with matcha before, but only briefly.

Chawan, chasen, chashaku… and you’re in business. Pretty simple, really.

The matcha I used is some stuff I got with the chasen and the chashaku.

Made by a store that is, supposedly, continuously in existence for 450 years in Uji. I believe them. Walking down the street from the train station to Byodo-in really makes you feel like you’re back in an Edo period town. The stores are all obviously old and, thankfully, escaped damage from the war.

I tried

Interesting, because in the mouth, the tea isn’t particularly strong. I made it lightly, in case I did something horribly wrong. I used hottish water — water that was boiled and then let cooled for a bit. I don’t know how hot, or how much exactly, I used. I just eyeballed it as best I can. After drinking it though, I can feel a nice, sweet aftertaste. It also gave me a feeling that is akin to cha qi. A little later, I can feel a jolt, probably from the caffeine.

Interesting. When cooled, it can be a nice summery drink. I don’t see myself drinking this stuff too often — I went to an aged baozhong right after. However, I do feel a sort of obligation, at the very least, to be experimenting a little more in this area.

Now I sound like a drug addict….

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

New toys

May 16, 2008 · 4 Comments

A big package arrived today, with my new toys. Too lazy to take pictures at this point, but you’ll see them tomorrow.

Now….

Anybody has any suggestion on ways to make matcha? I’ve tried it before, but am by no means skilled. Usucha seems more appropriate at this point, since I know making koicha can be tricky.

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

Aged shuixian

May 15, 2008 · 2 Comments

I had some aged shuixian today. The first thing that came to mind when I tried it is…. seems like the tea has improved.

I’m using the same pot as before, so I am guessing the water/kettle has something to do with it (lighting conditions was awful today for pictures). There’s a more spicy taste to the shuixian than I previously remembered — something that, given more intensity, will start approaching the taste of the mystery aged oolong I have.

So maybe, after all, Tiffany is right, and that tea is an aged shuixian of some sort, aged somewhat carelessly. This tea is only about 5-10 years old, according to the person who sold it to me. I sometimes wonder if I can find old teas stored away somewhere in Wuyishan…. we can always dream, I suppose 🙂

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

How much tea to use?

May 14, 2008 · 2 Comments

One of the most basic things you learn when you first try to brew tea is … one spoonful for the pot, and then one for every person.

Somehow, the size of the vessel doesn’t matter for that one.

Over time, I’ve noticed that one of the most consistent question that comes up for brewing tea — any kind of tea, but especially gongfu Chinese tea, is “how much tea did you use?”

Which of course should also go with “how big is your pot/gaiwan?” if you’re making it gongfu style.

As my longtime readers would know, I eschew a scale. I judge how much tea I’m using only relative to the pot size and the kind of tea. Pot size it’s easy — whether it’s 2/3, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5…. so on. But when do I use 2/3, 1/3, etc?

That’s when the tea part comes in… the amount changes depending on the tea. It also depends on individual teas, but in general, it depends on the style. So, for example, Wuyi teas generally get the most, as well as some high roasted oolongs, especially if I’m trying to make them Chaozhou style. Then you have stuff like aged puerh and aged oolong, young puerh, light oolongs…. roughly in that order (from high to low).

Within each genre, of course, there are also variations. Some Wuyi need more leaves than others. Some need less. In most cases, however, those general principles hold — at least for me.

One thing I’ve found repeated over many times by various people is that somehow, a tea that requires more leaves to be good is necessarily not as high quality as one that requires less leaves. Even assuming that there’s a universal “good”, I am not sure why this should be true. Would anybody dispute that a Red Label, aged 50+ years now, is no good? Yet, when Cloud described drinking it with his friend, they used a whooping 14.1 grams of tea for one pot. Does that make it worse than some other aged puerh that require only 10g?

Therein lies the problem, I think, for there are other variables involved that do not factor into the equation of weight/volume. For example, a certain tea might be particularly interesting because of, say, a unique fragrance it gives off when you brew it right. However, brewing it right might involve using more leaves than usual. You can brew that tea using normal parameters for a particular genre, and not get anything interesting from that tea. It is possible to simply discard it and decide it’s not worth the trouble. Or, one can try again, varying the parameters a little, and see what happens… and sometimes good things happen, sometimes it’s more than merely good — results can be amazing, revealing a totally different tea that was previously undiscovered. All it takes is more (or less) leaves.

Therefore, in some ways, I think any and all tasting of limited sized samples are, in and of themselves, rather meaningless. They’re sort of like a random walk — you can get all kinds of result from that one sitting. As each drinker develop more expeirence with teas in general and perhaps a certain genre in particular, it is possible to take less time in figuring out what an optimal brewing parameter is for a particular tea. The aggregate of tastings, preferably by one person, but sometimes by many (as in the case of the blogosphere), can be meaningful. I know I sometimes dismiss a tea as “bad”. That’s just bad for me for that particular sitting – sometimes. Sometimes it’s because I’ve had things like it before, and they simply don’t do it. Sometimes it’s because I have no clue what I’m doing and screwing everything up. So, take this post as a long caveat — and also as an apology for the rather difficult medium of the internet as the only way for us to have our tea meetings.

Categories: Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,