A Tea Addict's Journal

Entries categorized as ‘Old Xanga posts’

Narratives and taste

July 6, 2010 · 2 Comments

I just read a post by Felix Salmon, and I must say the same phenomenon happens a lot in tea as well.  It’s probably also happening with increased frequency.  When you get a story with a tea, the tea somehow, sometimes, anyway, becomes better, or more interesting.  When I talk to friends who are not particularly interested in tea, telling a story has a way of drawing them into a particular drink than if it were simply just some generic “aged oolong”, which does not sound too glamourous.  “Stored for ten years on an organic Taiwanese tea farm”, then you’re getting somewhere.

Most of this, of course, is just some marketing claptrap.  They exist because they sell the teas in question. But then, sometimes there are stories like the old jian of Liu’an that they supposedly found in some medicine shop.  Hard to beat those.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Running out of tea

July 2, 2010 · Leave a Comment

I’m running out of tea.

No, not completely, just at my current location.  I still have lots of tea at home, and another stash in Hong Kong, hopefully growing older (but not too much moldier) and waiting for me to consume them at some point in the distant future.

Right now, though, I’m running out of tea.  I’m down to about 1/10 of a 300g bag.  It’s very distressing.  It also tells me just about how much tea I consume over a week or a month.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

How fast do you drink your teas?

June 24, 2010 · 7 Comments

I just read a blog post about rating wines based on how fast they’re drunk.  It’s actually a pretty good idea, and I noticed the same about my tea drinking habits.  I bought, for example, a few cakes last month from Taobao.  I judged them completely by the cover and nothing else — just the listing, description, with some pictures, and that’s it.  It’s a risky way of buying tea, but when they are not expensive, it’s not bad.  I’ve already talked about the Dingxing, which is not bad at all.  This and this turned out to be quite nice.  This, however, was horrid.  It’s one of those cakes that is very bland, probably poorly processed and stored in a dry environment (Kunming) and just all around uninspiring.  You can’t tell from the looks, however, as all looked somewhat promising.

Now, a few weeks later, the first two cakes are almost all gone — I sent parts of them off, but I drank a fair bit too.  The last cake is almost entirely intact other than the two times I tried it, and honestly, I probably won’t try it anytime soon again.  It’ll stay around, probably for a few years, and I’ll hope and pray that by then, it might have done something, but generally speaking if a tea is weak, it’s going to stay weak.  “How fast do you drink it” seems to be a good metric for measuring a drink’s quality.  I do the same for my oolongs as well — the better stuff get drunk faster, and the worse ones stay around forever.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

Mandarin’s Tearoom 2010 Mingqian Shifeng longjing

June 21, 2010 · 3 Comments

Longjing is my first love.  I’ve talked about longjing a long time ago.  It was the tea that got me into tea drinking.  It’s the tea that my grandpa likes to drink a lot (yes, in grandpa style), and it’s also the drink of choice for folks from my area of the country.  All this oolong stuff is just silly, and puerh is obviously crap.  Longjing (and maybe biluochun) are the gold standards of what constitutes a proper tea.

I used to be pretty serious when brewing longjing — gaiwan with a fairness cup to cool the water, a soft pour, quick(ish) steeps.  The resulting brew comes out very, very light in colour.  The best longjing, as my old post already mentions, are usually very faint in colour — almost white, rather than green, is the norm.  If your leaves are dark green and the tea comes out yellow, it’s probably harvested later or low grade stuff.  If someone sells you a mingqian (pre-Ming) longjing for $400 a pound and it’s the colour of pine needles, it’s no good.

Another physical trait of decent longjing is that they tend to be hairy, and the buds should ideally be very thick and round.  They should look “fat”.  If the leaves look “skinny” to you, it’s probably not a very good grade, although of course individuals differ, and the ultimate test is still in the taste.  Using appearances to judge tea is a very flawed way to do so, but for something like longjing it is actually possible to get some idea of what the tea is like before even trying it.

I don’t drink much longjing these days, mostly because they tend to be expensive, and I don’t drink much of them to warrant a purchase.  Every year I might drink it a handful of times, and the rest, unfortunately, turn to yellow tea, old, somewhat weird tasting, but still drinkable.  They are hardly worth the cost, however.  Not being near the source also doesn’t help — longjing is something you need to purchase in person, rather than from some online vendor.  Being in the US hasn’t helped my longjing habit.

I did receive a sample recently from Toki, however, so I broke it out and gave it a spin.  It was a generous sample, so I didn’t use all of it.  First off, the leaves

The colours here are a little off — my house has poor lightning for pictures, which is why these days I don’t take as many pictures.  You can see the white tuffs of hair on the right hand side on one of the leaves, and scattered around.  Different longjing from different vendors always look different.

These days when I make longjing, I generally use a gaiwan and make it the old fashioned way — in the gaiwan as a sipping cup.  If that’s how people used to make it for hundreds of years, then I see no reason why we should go all fancy on it.  It is, in other words, grandpa style with gaiwan.

How much leaves to put into these things is key — too much and you risk stuffing the cup and making it incredibly nasty.  Too little, and it’s going to be bland.  For this sort of brewing, if it covers the bottom of the cup it’s probably about right.

Now, how’s the tea?  Fragrant, with a nice minty feel down the throat.  I find it to be beany, which is normal for this kind of longjing.  It’s not too astringent even when brewed for a while — which is a good thing.  I’ll probably make it once the gongfu way, but drunk this way the tea is quite nice.

Categories: Old Xanga posts · Teas
Tagged: , ,

Price stickiness

June 9, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Economists use the concept of “sticky prices” to describe the phenomenon where prices rise or fall slower than they should based on supply and demand, because of various kinds of reasons which I will not cite here.  It happens every day around us, and as tea drinkers, I think we are generally quite familiar with it.

One of the things that took place in the puerh market in the past few years is a sort of normalization after the euphoria of the 2004-2006 “bull” run, so to speak, in which speculation in tea reached fever pitch.  I remember the days when a jian of Menghai cakes, brand new out of the factory, can be flipped for a profit almost instantly and repeatedly.  It was the definition of a bubble — nobody was actually drinking any of this stuff, but everybody was buying and selling it.  If you were the sucker who was left holding the tea when the bubble crashed in 2007, well, sorry, too bad for you.

These days, as I peruse the selection on Taobao, I am seeing a lot of tea that I used to see for a higher or similar price back when I was in China in 06/07.  There are cakes that have remained more or less at the same price for the last four years, and in some cases, prices finally started falling for some of them.  Imagine you’ve been a big buyer during the boom, and you have tonnes of tea…. initially, you wanted to hold on to it, hoping prices will recover.  By now, however, it’s pretty clear that prices are not going to recover, so you are finally trying to offload the tea (since you are probably not going to be able to drink the 10 tonnes of tea you bought) so that you can get some cash back.  I remember predicting, at that point in time, that there will be a lot of decent, few-years-old tea that will be available for a reasonable price in the marketplace as people start to unload their collection.  I think we are finally seeing that happening.

Of course, not all of these tea are good — in fact, many of them are horrid, either due to poor storage or poor initial quality.  Selecting the right tea is key — and selecting them for the purpose that you want it for, be it further storage or immediate consumption.  I think in the next few years though, we’ll see more and more of these 5-10 years old tea hit the market and the “aged” tea prices will finally be more reasonable than they have ever been.  It’s a good time to be a tea drinker.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

Less is (sometimes) more

May 28, 2010 · Leave a Comment

If you’ve been following this blog you’d know that I drink tea only once a day.  Once, of course, is a bit of a misnomer, as it involves multiple infusions and can go on for a while.  I’ve been trying to reduce my caffeine intake a little these days by not using as much leaves as I have been in the recent past.  It’s always a dangerous thing to start adding more leaves to your tea — there’s a tendency that I’ve observed among teaheads that the amount of leaves used/water tilts towards leaves, rather than water.  I think this is biologically rooted — more caffeine.

I have been “rediscovering” some of my usual teas this way.  I am particularly fond of an aged siji oolong of mine, which actually brews better with less leaves (but not too little — when it becomes bland) than too much.  If the pot is stuff too full with leaves, the tea gets a bit bitter and sour, whereas with just the right amount it is fragrant, sweet, and fresh (in an aged way, of course).  I almost forgot why I loved the tea so much that I am now sitting on a few kg of it.  The same can sometimes be said of some younger puerh as well, which tend to be more fragrant and less punchy when brewed lightly.  Then there are other things that require sufficient amounts of leaves to really shine — a yancha, for example.  It’s a fine balance, and finding that right balance is part of the fun.

Now, of course, if only lowered dosage of caffeine won’t lead to caffeine headaches, but that’s a different problem entirely.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged:

~10 years old Dingxing puerh

May 24, 2010 · 16 Comments

I made an order recently through Taobao, and one of the cakes I got was this

A tea made by “Dingxing”, a long defunct tea maker from early this century.  Like many others at the time, some manufacturer saw it fit to use these old school names when making their own puerh.  There’s no clear vintage for this tea — I’m guessing around 10 years or thereabouts, plus or minus a few.  In some ways, that matters less than what it tastes like — as storage condition matter greatly, and as anyone can tell you, 10 years in Kunming is not the same as 10 years in Hong Kong.

You can see the paper is slightly worn and probably devoured by some bugs.  There are no obvious bugs in the cake, but there’s that smell of a wet storage room.  The cake itself isn’t really frosted

I didn’t use too much leaves.  The first two infusions there’s a distinct smell of wet storage, but in a slightly bad way.  The cake can use a little time to air out before another attempt.  The wet storage, however, goes away a bit, and what remains after the first few infusions is a nice, somewhat aged cup of tea.  It’s sweet, although some bitterness remain if you brew it longer.  Perfume smells.

And the wet leaves tell the rest of the story.

There are lots of duds on taobao, and I’ve bought a few.  This one is not too bad though.

Categories: Old Xanga posts · Teas
Tagged:

Whitedog whisk(e)y and young raw puerh

May 19, 2010 · 2 Comments

The New York Times recently ran an article on the appearance recently of white dog whisky on the market.  It seems like some hardcore fans of whisky think this is a sacrilege — that maturation is what makes a whisky whisky (after all, they’re not allowed to call it that, at least not the scotch variety), I started thinking about our little favourite here, puerh.

After all, there are parallels here.  We talk about aging puerh as an essential process that makes a puerh, well, puerh.  It’s not pu if it’s not aged, or so some will argue.  Others, usually newer school drinkers, will contest that young, raw puerh is still puerh — it’s just not aged.  I think the parallel here with a white dog whisky is quite apt, and in some ways, much more so than wine.  A young wine, while it is not quite the same as an aged wine from the same vineyard, will share many resemblances with its older counterpart, whereas there are fundamental and crucial differences between a new make spirit and matured whisky, to the point where a newcomer to the drink will not even recognize them as being the same thing, sans 10 years difference in the cask (said drinker will probably think it’s just some really nasty vodka).

Puerh, I think, belongs to the latter category — no one of their right mind would think that a 15 years old puerh is the same thing as a new born cake.  They look different, taste different, and even feel different.  The aging process is crucial, and with that, where and how it was aged are also extremely important.  I just bought a few things from Taobao, and tried the first of these cakes today — a Kunming stored Yiwu from 2003.  It was not very inspiring, and leaves me with a lot of question marks.  I know, however, that Kunming is not a particularly good place to store tea for the long haul, and I think I should probably avoid buying Kunming stored tea from now on if at all possible.  If I want a new, fresh puerh, I can drink that, but in the end, I find the aged variety much more enjoyable.  Some would argue that drinking the unaged cakes will educate you about their future and what the baseline taste of puerh is, but I find that to be a bit of a red-herring — the taste of the tea changes so much over just even a few years of proper storage that it becomes almost unrecognizable.  Which is why, again and again, I think only mouthfeel and body ultimately matters in the evaluation of younger puerh.

Categories: Information · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: , ,

White clay?

May 17, 2010 · 7 Comments

A new acquisition

The pot is rather small, with a diameter about the same as a regular camera lens.  It’s also got an interesting look on the clay — feels almost liquid, rather than sandy.

I still need to clean it, but I already love the colour of the pot.

Categories: Objects · Old Xanga posts
Tagged: ,

1998 CNNP “Green Wrapper” brick

May 16, 2010 · Leave a Comment

This is a long, long forgotten sample from YSLLC that I obtained at least a year ago, if not more.  It’s no longer available, as far as I can tell.  The thing is a brick, so the leaves are, predictably, chopped to high heavens.  The general rule of thumb, at least until the past few years, is that anything other than cakes and you’re going to get chopped up leaves.  In fact, you’d be better off with tuos than you are with bricks.  Bricks is usually a good guarantee for really, really broken stuff.

The tea is interesting — it is aged somewhat, but since it was probably stuck in Kunming, the aging is not very great.  The tea is sour, at least in the middle infusions.  Strength is low.  There wasn’t much to the tea and what it had, it delivered pretty quickly.  There’s a reason bricks are not a good investment and why my friends in Hong Kong avoid them.

It’s not horrid — if you can get past the sourness — but it’s not something you’d really rejoice in drinking either.  There are better teas out there that are younger but more rewarding.  This is not a good example of a 12 years old tea.

Categories: Old Xanga posts · Teas
Tagged: ,