A Tea Addict's Journal

Restaurant tea service

May 4, 2021 · 10 Comments

You are at a beautiful restaurant, the dinner was very good, and you’re satisfied. Dessert is coming, and the server comes around and asks you “coffee or tea?” Being a civilized person, of course you said tea. Then, they come right back and bring you what I call the box of doom

And your heart sinks, because, well, you know.

Now, granted, if you’re at some fancy place, chances are they won’t do this kind of injustice to you. Instead, they’ll have a few menu options for you to choose from. But more often than not, as a non-flavoured, caffeinated tea drinker, the options are usually English breakfast, and maybe Earl Grey. If you’re lucky, the place has a few other options, such as an Assam, Ceylon, or even Darjeeling. If not, it’s going to be some random green tea, chamomile, and a really dodgy puerh.

It’s interesting to me that this happens often enough. Restaurants that spend a good deal of time and energy worrying about their food, their alcohol, and their decor, frequently pay too little attention to literally the last thing you’re likely to taste before leaving. Yes, it’s a First World Problem, but then, that’s what this whole blog is about isn’t it.

I’ve never worked in a restaurant or run one, but I recognize that tea service is difficult and fussy. I’d imagine it’s a costly exercise having to deal with brewing tea – you need a teapot, a cup, hot water, leaves, someone to deal with all that gear, plus sugar and cream. Compared to coffee, where you just present the drinker with a cup of coffee and cream and sugar… tea is annoying.

Yet, it doesn’t really make sense to me how neglected it is among restaurants. Take, for example, this tea menu:

The eagle eyed among you probably noticed a few weird things. Puerh listed as a black (1993 too!). A Zealong premium, which doesn’t seem to exist anymore on their own website, also black (why buy a Zealong black tea?). Yushan oolong from the national park – pretty certain anywhere with tea farms isn’t actually in the park itself – most likely it’s an area next to Yushan, more like an Alishan tea. Da Ya Qing is probably Dayeqing, a typical name for a yellow tea. Yuzu Kikucha, not kikicha. Now, what if I told you this is from the last page of the 100+ pages wine menu from Per Se, a Michelin three star restaurant in NYC owned by Thomas Keller? I’d imagine their wine list doesn’t have this many question marks on one page, so why is it ok with tea?

Now, typos aside, this tea menu is actually ok – it has nine options for those of us who want unflavoured, caffeinated tea, which is a lot more than most places offer. Of course, at a restaurant charging you hundreds of dollars per head, this is the least I’d expect. But then, even at super fancy places, the tea service can be underwhelming.

“Per Se is dated” I hear you say. Ok, how about the menu at Le Bernadin, a half dozen blocks down Broadway?

If you want caffeinated, non-flavoured tea, you’re stuck with Keemun or Dragonwell (not Dragon’s well). I guess you can drink sencha… but you know, there’s a reason nice Japanese places in Japan generally give you hojicha after a meal and not sencha. Sencha is not an after-meal drink, at all. Especially after heavy French food, you’d want something with a bit more weight. Le Bernadin’s tea menu veers too much on the light side – even Keemun might be too light. A malty Yunnan black would do much better (or, better yet, a heavily roasted TGY).

Which also gets me to the second part – the teaware. The teapots used are often impractical, looking more to impress visually than be good practically. They’re usually too big, which I understand – you want to avoid having to refill. But it also means there’s a lot of room for error for the drinker. Use too much leaves, and it comes out super strong. Use too little, and the tea is insipid, especially if it’s something that sells for $8 at a place with a tasting menu at $275. If the teapot has a mesh element, they’re impossible to clean properly, and after a few months or a year, will take on the smell and taste of whatever flavoured teas that are most commonly ordered at the restaurant. So then, when you order that sencha, it’s going to come with free vanilla and lavender flavour, whether you like it or not. And don’t get me started on baskets/infusers that are too small for the job.

Carrying tea is costly, just like any kind of inventory, and unlike wine, it goes bad. So it’s fairly understandable why you’d want to avoid having too much variety or just too much stock in general. I think for a restaurant menu, flavoured vs unflavoured should be about half and half. Easy to brew teas should be prioritized – blacks, roasted oolongs, hojicha, that sort of thing. Sencha, pan fried green teas, and other more delicate teas like light oolongs should be treated cautiously – if carried at all (and they also go stale very quickly). For example, that dancong on Per Se’s menu looks like a disaster in the making – I can imagine it being fragrant but also nasty bitter if brewed the normal western way in a big pot. How is that a good idea?

Look, I get it, tea isn’t something you can easily charge thousands of dollars for, unlike wine. While there’s a market for expensive-ish tea, these restaurants aren’t where you’d go for that. I’m not asking for home quality tea here, I just want something that isn’t nasty and leave me with a bad taste in the mouth as the last thing I ingest before standing up and walking out. For those of us who don’t drink coffee, there’s often no alternative but some bad English breakfast blend that taste like Lipton yellow label. For restaurants that supposedly care about things like taste, food source, sustainability, and all that other good stuff, you should care about the tea that you serve your customers.

Categories: Teas

10 responses so far ↓

  • m // May 4, 2021 at 11:56 am | Reply

    I’m stealing ‘box of doom’

  • Jim Bailey // May 4, 2021 at 11:56 am | Reply

    Reminds me of a time I was in San Francisco Chinatown. We visited Red Blossom tea and told them we were headed over to City View for some Dim Sum. Alice asked us to wait for a moment. She went over to the teas, and pulled one off the shelf, poured some in a “tea bag” and told us to ask for just a pot of hot water at the restaurant rather than their tea! I can’t remember at this point what she gave us (this was 10+ years ago), but it was a wonderful tea with the Dim Sum!

  • Koume // May 4, 2021 at 12:09 pm | Reply

    A welcome sight would be this https://www.instagram.com/p/B7UpEU4Akmz/
    A kettle, tea light stand, pre-packaged Yancha or Roasted oolong, and a small cup for each guest
    Easy to brew, cheap to buy, aesthetically pleasing, and satisfying after a heavy meal.

  • Charles // May 5, 2021 at 12:51 pm | Reply

    For what it’s worth, those of us who take coffee seriously have the same problem. I’ve had acceptable black coffee at good restaurants on a handful of occasions – maybe two or three times a decade? A good espresso, literally never. I’ve also never had truly good tea at any coffee shop, even the best.

    Tea and coffee are specialized products and require specialized labor (and real care) to do well.

  • Alain Gaskin // May 17, 2021 at 8:14 am | Reply

    Having worked in the restaurant area for years, I hear and feel your pain.

    I tried at my own restaurant to convince my partners of selling something other than the tea bags, people just don’t care about loose leaf tea in my part of the world, so we had to go back to the tea bags. Even trying to select some with a certain level of “quality” wasn’t very practical. Hell, some of those tea bags remain untouched at the back of the tea box (very similar to the one presented at the beginning of this post) aging not very graciously.

    And you are very right, when it comes to service, the staff behind the bar prefers to throw some coffee pod in a Britt machine, steam some milk and be done with it rather than having to deal with teapots, strainers, tea leaves, etc.

    All I can say is that I tried.

  • Evan // February 26, 2022 at 11:14 am | Reply

    There’s a tea shop in Northampton, MA called Dobra Tea. They do gongfu service by providing the customer with the proper brewing vessel (usually a gaiwan) and a small Thermos that holds the hot water for infusions. If you need more water you just ask for it. their shop doesn’t seat more than 20 people, but its the best example of tea service I’ve ever had in the US.

  • Chitra // August 17, 2022 at 5:40 am | Reply

    Thanks for sharing your experience. It will definitely help others.

  • Gandon // June 3, 2023 at 4:43 pm | Reply

    To be fair, wine in even high quality restaurants sucks, the bottle usually costs 4-5 times more than in a specialised wine shop, 50$ expensive wines are usually 10$ in wine shops and in restaurants it’s usually stored very badly (and so it loses quality, I’d say wine is more delicate to store than tea, going a bit against your thesis there :P), me with a home set up do a better job. The wine is usually very mediocre even for the selected price point (as in, among the 10$ wines they are usually very meh ones).

    This gets even worse coming from Italy and the same wine that here is a supermarket wine for 10€ (which is usually significantly worse than a wine shop wine for 10€) is in Northern Europe (except France, Austria) and the US 25$, which gets raised to 80$ if you buy the wine bottle in the restaurant in Northern Europe or USA, for what is supermarket wine. I’ve seen it before.

    On the bright side, people that only drink wine in restaurants are easy to impress, I load with wine from my favourite wine shop back in Italy and run a show with 10 bottles that cost 12-15€ (you could do even more for well selected 50€ bottles, but that’s not a bottle I’d share)

    Restaurants are for foods really, this sort of specialised labour like wine or tea or coffee fails to deliver.

    Truth that wine has the advantage of not being brewed, if I sold young sheng in a restaurants all clients would complain for being a bitter shotgun because they left it there for 5 minutes and god forbid they’re too stubborn to believe that brewing for less changes anything.

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